About internet advice:
Access to accurate and up-to-date information on bird care is essential in order to make good decisions for your
feathered friends. Please consult your Board Certified Avian Vet (ABVP or ECAMS) for follow-up and detailed answers to your questions. Advice from a
vet who has examined your bird always supercedes any information you find on the web or in books, including the information below.
These articles are written, reprinted and/or adapted here for your information and benefit. Subjects in alpha order.
Parrots' Bill of Rights
(Adapted & Updated by Squawk and Howl)1. GET TO KNOW ABOUT PARROTS BEFORE YOU BRING ME HOME
I am not a domesticated pet like a dog or cat- I still have the spirit of the jungle in me. I have special needs,
which you may find HARD to fill. Please don't learn these too late for my well-being. Continuing education about
me is also important. Avian medicine and nutrition advances are happening all the time. Get me from a reputable breeder,
store, or rescue- Do NOT acquire me or one of my cousins from a bird mill, irresponsible chain store, or wild from the
jungle - it will jeopardize our survival and well-being - and that won't be a party for you either! For a list of
educational bird books, click here.
2. GIVE ME THE LARGEST HOME POSSIBLE
I am used to flying through rainforests or savannas. I have given up this great gift for your pleasure. I need room to flap my
wings and exercise. I need a places to be other than my cage- get me a playgym or two! Eat & bathe with me- I need to roam from
room to room with you and our flock doing the things flocks do! I need toys for my amusement and wood to chew - otherwise, I
might confuse your home with the forest and its trees. For information on cages, click here. For information
on playgyms, click here.
3. GIVE ME A NUTRITIOUS DIET
I need a wide variety of fresh and nutritious foods, even if they take time to prepare. I cannot survive on seeds alone.
Take time to learn what my needs, and preferences are. Food, for parrots, is more than nutrition. It is a social activity that bonds
a flock together. Be sure & share mealtimes with me! For proper diet, click here. For pellet
information, click here.
4. LET ME HAVE A 'SOCIAL LIFE'
I am a gregarious flock animal - but I am not one of you. I need lots of socialization to learn how to act with you, and
with my siblings. I also need to have adequate quality time with you every day - no matter what your schedule or other needs
are. I am a living, feeling creature. Above all, I need to be able to have complete trust in you, and count on your
predictability in looking after me - EVERY day. I am feathered child of yours now- treat me like you would your own child.
5. LET ME BE CLEAN
I may like to drop food or even throw it, but I need meticulous cleanliness to be healthy. My skin itches without frequent
showers, the barbs of my feathers won't seal if they become oily and, worst of all, I may become ill if my food or water
is not always sanitary. I am used to living high in the trees, away from my own droppings (and the bacteria that breeds in them).
I have not built up the kind of immunity that land-dwelling mammals have. More info on cleanliness here.
6. I NEED MY OWN DOCTOR & SPECIAL CARE
You may not understand my physiology and therefore you may not recognize it early on when I get sick. And it may be too late
when you do, because I hide my illnesses (remember what I said about my being an animal of the jungle, where there are lots
of predators). And I need an board certified avian vet - a specialist (no HMOs for me please), annual checkups and emergency
visits when needed. If you can't afford one, perhaps you shouldn't have taken me home. When you are not around, please be sure
to get a qualified, experienced person to spend time with me, out of my cage, and care for me properly. To find a proper vet,
click here. To find a good bird sitter, click here.
7. DO NOT PUNISH ME
Just as I don't always understand your peculiarities, you may not understand mine. I don't TRY to get in trouble - remember,
a house is not the jungle. If I do screw up, don't yell at me and never hit me. I have sensitive ears and I may never trust
you again if you strike me. Hands are sometimes scary things to us (why in the world would you not be zygodactylous like us?).
Even more importantly, we don't learn by punishment. We are gentle creatures who only strike back to protect ourselves;
we learn through patience and love. Learn LOTS about parrot behavior from the experts- click here.
8. SPEAK MY LANGUAGE
I know you get upset with me when I knock over my water bowl, throw food, scream or pluck my feathers. I don't do these to annoy
you - I am probably trying to tell you something (perhaps that I am hurting, lonely, or sad). Learn to speak MY (body)
language. Remember that I alone, of all creatures on this planet, learn to speak yours! Learn LOTS about parrot behavior from
the experts- click here.
9. SEE ME AS AN INDIVIDUAL
I am a unique and feeling being. No two of us are alike. Please don't be disappointed in me if I don't talk like you wanted, or
can't do the tricks that your friend's parrot can do. But if you pay close attention to me (and I always empathize with you,
whether you know it or not), I will show you a unique being who will give you so much more than talking and playing. Give me a
chance to show you who I am; I think you'll find the effort worth it.
And remember - I am not an ornament; I do not enhance ANY living room decor. And I am not a status symbol - if you use me as
such, I might nip at your up-turned nose (and you would deserve it)!
10. SHARE YOUR LOVE WITH ME- ALWAYS
Above all, please remember that you are my Special Person. I put all my trust and faith in you. We parrots are used to being
monogamous (no bar-hopping for us!). So please don't go away for long periods or give me away - that would be a sadness from
which I may never recover. If that seems to be asking a lot, remember - you could have learned about my needs before bringing
me home.
Even having a baby or taking a new job isn't a fair reason - you made a commitment to me FIRST. And if you think that
you must leave me because you might die, provide for me forever after you leave. I may live to a ripe old age but I can't
provide for myself. Remember I'm in a small cage amongst people who are not of my blood.
And I know it may be difficult for you, but I need you there at the end of my life (should I go before you). I need to feel your
love as the last thing that I experience. And should you go before me, please provide for me so that I can live out my life in
comfort and happiness.
11. YOUR RIGHTS
You have lots of rights, but I can only assure one. That is, if you treat me the way I described above, I will reward you
with unwavering love, humor, knowledge, beauty, dedication - and a sense of wonder and awe you haven't felt since you were a
child. When you took me home, you became my Flock Leader, indeed, my entire universe - for life. I would hang the moon and
stars for you if I could. We are one in Heart and Soul.
Top 10 Dangers in the Home
Pet birds are particularly vulnerable to a broad assortment of household dangers.
There are several reasons for this, including a bird's small size, fast metabolism, and hypersensitive respiratory system. But
what parrot isn't curious? Pet birds have a passionate interest in exploring everything with their beaks. Be vigilant about
protecting your bird from the dangers in your home.
1) Poisoning
A bird's health is endangered by a wide variety of toxic substances that are commonly found in the home. Poisons enter the body
through ingestion (eating) or inhalation (breathing them in). One of the most common poisons for pet birds is insecticides or
pesticides. Other poisons include ammonia, bleach, many glues, nail polish remover, oven cleaner, paint, perfumed candles, and
heavy metals (e.g. lead and zinc that may even come from a "cheap cage"). Poisonous plants are also dangerous
(See Toxic Plant list).
2) Non-Stick Coatings
While technically a poison, non-stick coatings (like Teflon, Stainmaster, and Scotchguarding) demand special mention because so
many household products contain this fatal product. Any coating that contains PTFE is a poison, to birds AND humans. Many companies
are now purporting their non-stick surfaces as "animal safe" or even "bird safe". If they contain even trace amounts of PTFE this
is NOT TRUE. When overheated, non-stick coating on cookware emits fumes that are very toxic
to inhale - and the temperatures recorded that have killed birds keep getting lower and lower! It used to be that people thought only
in excess of 500 F could kill a bird. But sadly, this is not true. Birds are particularly susceptible to the toxicity in this poison-
it affects them within hours. Teflon is found on non-stick cookware, in waffle irons, bread machines, on irons, ironing board covers,
curling irons, space heaters, blow dryers, fabrics that are "Scotchguarded" or have "Stainmaster", George Foreman Grills, many brands of
microwave popcorn bags, and other appliances. Best to purge your house of as much as possible. By the way, this stuff is not good
for humans, either. It is a known human carcinogen, so why cook in it?
3) Open Pools of Water
Toilets are the most common source of open water in your home. It is all too common for pet birds to fall in and drown.
Other water dangers to watch for: sinks, bathtubs, buckets, and water bowls of dogs or cats. Hot pots of water on the stove are a
frequent cause of death in pet birds.
4) Unhealthy Foods
Unhealthy foods might lead to death in pet birds. Foods high in sugar or salt cannot be properly digested. Fatty foods may lead to
disease. Some foods are imminently dangerous. Avoid avocados, chocolate, caffeine and alcoholic beverages. Also avoid feeding a
primarily seed-based diet.Click here for GOOD foods!
5) Electrical Cords
Birds explore with their beaks like puppies and human babies explore with their mouths. They often find exposed electrical fun to
bite. Keep all cords and appliances away from your birdcage. Conceal cords as much as possible.
6) Toys
Make sure your parrots are not able to break off or remove any toy parts. Small parts can be easily swallowed. Improperly sized
toys are dangerous. Provide your bird with the correct sized toy for their species. Rope toys should be examined for safety on a
regular basis. They are dangerous if they have frays that are long enough to tangle up around a toe or even a neck.
More on toys
7) Ceiling Fans
Ceiling fans pose a serious danger when unclipped birds (please consider clipping!) fly into them. Birds
are inclined to be tense with things moving above them and many birds find a ceiling fan to be stressful.
8) Windows, Doors, and Mirrors
Windows and mirrors pose a danger when birds fly into them. Frightened birds naturally fly toward the light. This is why they
aim toward windows and mirrors. Keep your birds wings clipped to minimize this risk. Even interior doors can be risky. If your
bird likes to sit on the top of an open door it could be injured when the door is closed.
9) Other Pets
While birds often live happily with other family pets, you should always be careful when your bird is around them. The fluttering
motion of birds attracts the prey instinct in cats and dogs and the bacteria in a bite, scratch, or lick can be fatal to your bird
within hours.
10) Air Quality
Birds are especially sensitive to contaminants in the air. Aerosol products of any kind should not be used around your bird. Cigarette
smoke has been implicated in respiratory disease in pet birds. Even nicotine from your hands can transfer onto your bird's feathers
and cause illness and feather plucking. Carbon monoxide is also dangerous to birds, so use a carbon monoxide detector in the home
and be careful not to run your vehicle in an attached garage. More on air filtration. More on Asper.
This is only a partial list; if you don't see the one you are concerned about, do not assume it is safe. You can call the San Francisco Bay Area Regional Poison Center at (415) 666-2845 for plant identification and toxicity information.
A: Acokanthera, Aconite, Agaric Mushroom, Alacia, Amaryllis, American Yew Apple (seeds), Apple (seeds), Angel's Trumpet, Autumn Crocus, Avocado, Azalea
B: Balsam, Balsam Pear, Baneberry (root), Belladonna, Bird of Paradise, Bishop's Weed, Bitter Melon, Bittersweet, Black Locust, Bleeding Heart, Blue Flag, Blue Cohosh, Blue-Green Algae, Boxwood, Bracken Fern, Broomcorn Grass, Buckeye, Buckthorn, Burdock, Buttercup
C: Cabbage, Caladium, Calla Lily, Camel Bush, Candelabra Tree, Cardinal Flower, Carnation, Castor Bean, Catclaw Acacia, Chalice Vine, Cherry (leaves, tigs, seeds/pits), Chinaberry, Chokecherry, Christmas Candle, Clematis, Coffee Bean, Coral Plant, Cotoneaster, Cowslip, Creeping Charlie, Crocus, Croton, Crown of Thorns, Cycad or Sago, Cycas
D: Daffodil, Daphne, Datura, Delphinium Laurel, Deadly Amanita, Deadly Nightshade, Death Camas, Diffenbachia, Delphinium, Devil's Ivy, Dumbcane
E: Eggplant, Elderberry, Elephant's Ear (Taro), English Lily of the Valley, Ergot, Euonymus, European Pennyroyal
F: False Henbane, Fava Bean, Figs, Ficus, Firethorn, Four o'Clock, Foxglove, Fruit Pits, Fungus
G: Ghostweed, Glory Bean, Golden Chain, Grapes, Chilean (There is a toxic mold growing in the flesh that is not visible. It is killing parrots around the world. Avoid grapes from Chile!), Ground Cherry
H: Heliotrope, Hemlock, Henbane, Holly and Berries, Honeysuckle, Horse Chestnut, Horse Nettle, Horsetail, Hyacinth, Hydrangea
I: Indian Licorice, Indian Turnip, Inkberry, Iris (Blue Flag), Ivy (Boston, English and Baltic)
J: Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Jasmine, Java Bean, Jequirity Bean, Jerusalem Cherry, Jessamine, Jimsonweed, Jonquil, Juniper
K:
L: Lantana, Larkspur, Laurel, Lily of the Valley, Lima Bean, Lobelia, Locoweed, Lords & Ladies, Lupine
M: Mandrake, Mango (tree, not fruit), Marsh Marigold, Marigold, Marijuana, Mayapple, Meadow, Mescal Bean, Milkweed, Mistletoe, Mock Orange, Monkshood, Moonseed, Morning Glory (seed), Mountain Laurel, Mushrooms
N: Narcissus, Nightshade, Nutmeg
O: Oak, Oleander, Onion
P: Peach (pits/seeds, twigs), Pear (seeds), Pencil Tree, Pennyroyal, Peony, Periwinkle, Peyote, Philodendron, Pigweed, Pikeweed, Pine (needles, twigs, sap), Plum (pits), Poinsettia, Poison Hemlock, Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Poison Sumac, Pokeberry, Pokeweed, Poppy, Potato (shoots and eyes), Pothos, Precatory Beans, Primrose, Privet, Prunus Species (seed/pits), Pyracantha
Q:
R: Ragwort, Ranculus, Red Maple, Red Sage, Rhododendron, Rhubarb, Rosary Bean/Pea
S: Saffron, Sage, Sandbox Tree, Scarlet, Seed Pits: (Almond, Apple, Apricot, Cherry, Peach, Pear and Plum), Shamrock Plant, Skunk Cabbage, Snowdrop, Snow on the Mountain, Sorrel, Spindle Tree, Spurges, Squill, Star of Bethlehem, String of Beads/Pearls, Sweet Pea (seeds)
T: Taro, Thornapple, Tobacco, Tomato (leaves, stems, & roots), Toyon Leaves, Trumpet, Tulip
U: Umbrella Plant
V: Vetches, Vinca, Virginia Creeper
W: Water hemlock, Waxberry, Wisteria, Witchhazel, Woodrose
X:
Y: Yam Bean, Yellow Jimsonweed, Yew
Z:
Birds are more sensitive than humans and feel the effects of their toxicity on their systems before humans do. Ever hear of
"the canary in the coalmine"? Miners kept canaries as beacons of gas leaks, fires, and other dangers. If the canary died, the
miners would run to the surface, escaping the danger that would eventually kill them also. Rather than thinking that eliminating
these toxins in your home is a burden, it is more appropriate to thank your new feathered friend from sparing you from things
that also detrimentally affect human health.
Aerosols (Propellants)
Aluminum "Cooking Bags"
Commercial Cleaning and "Freshening" Products (such as automatic dishwashing soap, bleach, carpet or fabric freshener (like Fabreeze),
furniture polish, pine oil cleaners, leather protectant sprays, plug-in air fresheners, potpourri oils)
Avocado
Barbeque Smoke & Briquettes
Candles
Carpet, New (Fumes)
Cigarettes and Cigarette Smoke
Coffee
Chocolate
Epoxy Glue
Essential Oils
Ethylene Glycol (Antifreeze, Film Canisters)
Febreeze (The company labels it "pet safe" but that only applies to cats & dogs.)
Flea Collars and Sprays
Glade & Similar "Air Freshening" Products
Homemade Play Dough (Toxic Levels of Salt)
Incense
Linoleum (The old stuff (only)- it contains lead)
Matches
Microwave Popcorn Bags (contain Teflon)- get an air popper!
Mothballs
Medicines (Both Prescription and Over-the-Counter)
Oven Cleaners
Many Commercial Personal Care and Toiletry Products (general rule: if you can't pronounce it, why use it and keep it in the home?)
Non-Stick Cookware & Coatings (Teflon, Stainmaster, Scotchguard)
Pesticide Strips, Sprays, Foggers
Plant Spikes and all Fertilizer
Potpourri Oils
Poisonous plants (see list)
PTFE (the ingredient in ALL non-stick coatings)
Scotchguarding
Self-Cleaning Ovens
Spray Starch
Stainmaster Treatments
Tea Tree Oil
Teflon
Thermometers
More Common Dangers In Your Home
Nutritional Value of Seed and Nuts
We have all wondered which foods contain the most nutrition for our birds. The tables below contain information on the nutritional values of these foods prepared in a variety of ways. Learn which contain the most beneficial vitamins and minerals your pets require and which is the most nutritious way to serve them.
The information included below comes from the USDA Handbook #8 and information from food companies. The numbers used are averages. Be aware that nutrient content of foods varies based upon how they are grown and stored. However, you can use these numbers as a guideline in choosing food for your bird's diet.
The numbers in the tables provide the nutrition found in 1 ounce of food.
| Food Item | Calo ries | Prot (g) | Carb (g) | Fat (g) | satF (g) | monF (g) | polyF (g) | Cal (mg) | Phos (mg) | Sod (mg) | Pot (mg) | Iron (mg) | vitA (IU) | Thia (mg) | Ribo (mg) | Nia (mg) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sunflower Seed Kernels Dried | 161.60 | 6.46 | 5.33 | 14.06 | 1.47 | 2.68 | 9.28 | 32.89 | 199.87 | .85 | 195.33 | 1.93 | 14.18 | .65 | .07 | 1.28 |
| Safflower Seed Kernels Dried | 146.57 | 4.59 | 9.72 | 10.91 | 1.04 | 1.37 | 8.00 | 22.11 | 182.57 | .85 | 194.76 | 1.39 | 14.18 | .33 | .12 | .65 |
| Millet Raw | 107.16 | 3.12 | 20.67 | 1.19 | .20 | .22 | .60 | 2.27 | 80.80 | 1.42 | 55.28 | .85 | 0 | .12 | .08 | 1.34 |
| Sesame Seeds Whole Dried | 162.45 | 5.02 | 6.66 | 14.09 | 1.97 | 5.32 | 6.17 | 276.41 | 178.32 | 3.12 | 132.68 | 4.14 | 2.55 | .22 | .07 | 1.28 |
| Sesame Seed Kernels Dried | 166.70 | 7.48 | 2.66 | 15.54 | 2.17 | 5.87 | 6.81 | 37.14 | 220.00 | 11.34 | 115.38 | 2.21 | 18.71 | .20 | .02 | 1.33 |
| Pumpkin & Squash Kernels Dried | 153.37 | 6.95 | 5.05 | 13.01 | 2.46 | 4.04 | 5.93 | 12.19 | 332.83 | 5.10 | 228.78 | 4.25 | 107.73 | .06 | .09 | .50 |
| Pumpkin & Squash Seeds Whole Roasted w/o Salt | 126.44 | 5.27 | 15.25 | 5.5 | 1.04 | 1.71 | 2.51 | 15.59 | 26.08 | 5.10 | 260.54 | .94 | 17.58 | .01 | .01 | .08 |
| Oats | 110.28 | 4.79 | 18.80 | 1.96 | .35 | .62 | .72 | 15.31 | 148.27 | .57 | 121.62 | 1.33 | 0 | .22 | .04 | .27 |
| Watermelon Seed Kernels Dried | 157.91 | 8.02 | 4.34 | 13.44 | 2.77 | 2.10 | 7.96 | 15.31 | 214.04 | 28.07 | 183.71 | 2.07 | 0 | .05 | .04 | 1.01 |
| Dill Seed | 146.57 | 4.54 | 15.65 | 4.11 | .21 | 2.67 | .29 | 429.79 | 78.53 | 5.61 | 336.23 | 4.62 | 15.03 | .12 | .08 | .8 |
| Food Item | Calo ries | Prot (g) | Carb (g) | Fat (g) | satF (g) | monF (g) | polyF (g) | Cal (mg) | Phos (mg) | Sod (mg) | Pot (mg) | Iron (mg) | vitA (IU) | Thia (mg) | Ribo (mg) | Nia (mg) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Acorns Raw | 104.61 | 1.76 | 11.57 | 6.78 | .88 | 4.28 | 1.30 | 11.62 | 22.40 | 0 | 152.81 | .23 | 11.06 | .03 | .03 | .52 |
| Almonds Dried | 166.98 | 5.67 | 5.78 | 14.80 | 1.40 | 9.61 | 3.11 | 75.41 | 147.42 | 3.12 | 207.52 | 1.05 | 0 | .06 | .22 | .95 |
| Almonds Dry Roasted w/o & w Salt | 166.41 | 4.62 | 6.86 | 14.63 | 1.39 | 9.50 | 3.07 | 79.95 | 155.36 | 3.12 221.13 | 218.30 | 1.08 | 0 | .04 | .17 | .80 |
| Almonds Oil Roasted w/o & w Salt | 175.20 | 5.78 | 4.51 | 16.36 | 1.55 | 10.61 | 3.43 | 66.34 | 155.07 | 2.84 220.85 | 193.63 | 1.08 | 0 | .04 | .28 | .99 | Brazil Nuts Dried | 185.98 | 4.05 | 3.63 | 18.77 | 4.58 | 6.53 | 6.84 | 49.90 | 170.10 | .57 | 170.10 | .96 | 0 | .28 | .03 | .46 |
| Cashews Oil Roasted w/o & w Salt | 163.30 | 4.59 | 8.08 | 13.66 | 2.70 | 8.06 | 2.31 | 11.62 | 120.77 | 4.82 177.47 | 150.26 | 1.16 | 0 | .12 | .05 | .51 |
| Chestnuts European Raw | 55.57 | .45 | 12.53 | .37 | .07 | .12 | .14 | 5.39 | 10.77 | .57 | 137.21 | .26 | 7.37 | .04 | 0 | .31 |
| Coconut Meat Raw | 100.36 | .94 | 4.31 | 9.5 | 8.42 | .41 | .10 | 3.97 | 32.04 | 5.67 | 100.93 | .68 | 0 | .02 | .01 | .15 |
| Coconut Milk Raw | 65.21 | .65 | 1.56 | 6.75 | 5.99 | .29 | .07 | 4.54 | 28.35 | 4.25 | 74.56 | .45 | 0 | .01 | 0 | .22 |
| Filberts Dried | 179.17 | 3.69 | 4.34 | 17.75 | 1.30 | 13.92 | 1.70 | 53.30 | 88.45 | .85 | 126.16 | .94 | 18.99 | .14 | .03 | .32 |
| Filberts Dry Roasted w/o & w Salt | 187.68 | 2.84 | 5.07 | 18.80 | 1.38 | 14.73 | 1.80 | 55.28 | 91.57 | .85 221.13 | 130.98 | .96 | 19.56 | .06 | .06 | .79 |
| Filberts Oil Roasted w/o & w Salt | 187.11 | 4.05 | 5.44 | 18.03 | 1.33 | 14.13 | 1.73 | 55.57 | 92.42 | .85 222.83 | 131.83 | .96 | 19.85 | .06 | .06 | .79 |
| Macadamias Dried | 199.02 | 2.35 | 3.88 | 20.89 | 3.13 | 16.49 | .36 | 19.85 | 38.56 | 1.42 | 104.33 | .68 | 0 | .10 | .03 | .61 |
| Macadamias Oil Roasted w/o & w Salt | 203.55 | 2.07 | 3.66 | 21.69 | 3.25 | 17.12 | .37 | 12.76 | 56.70 | 1.98 73.71 | 93.27 | .51 | 2.55 | .06 | .03 | .57 |
| Peanuts Raw | 160.74 | 7.31 | 4.56 | 13.95 | 1.94 | 6.93 | 4.41 | 26.08 | 106.60 | 5.10 | 199.87 | 1.30 | 0 | .18 | .04 | 3.42 |
| Peanuts Oil Roasted w/o & w Salt | 164.71 | 7.48 | 5.36 | 13.98 | 1.94 | 6.93 | 4.42 | 24.95 | 146.57 | 1.70 122.76 | 193.35 | .51 | 0 | .07 | .03 | 4.05 |
| Pecans Dried | 189.09 | 2.21 | 5.16 | 19.16 | 1.54 | 11.95 | 4.75 | 10.21 | 82.50 | .28 | 111.13 | .60 | 36.29 | .24 | .04 | .25 |
| Pecans Dry Roasted w/o & w Salt | 186.83 | 2.27 | 6.32 | 18.31 | 1.47 | 11.42 | 4.53 | 9.92 | 86.18 | .28 221.13 | 104.90 | .62 | 37.71 | .09 | .03 | .26 |
| Pecans Oil Roasted w/o & w Salt | 194.20 | 1.98 | 4.56 | 20.19 | 1.62 | 12.58 | 5.00 | 9.64 | 83.35 | .28 214.33 | 101.78 | .6 | 36.57 | .09 | .03 | .25 |
| Pine Nuts Pignolias Dried | 146.00 | 6.80 | 4.03 | 14.37 | 2.21 | 5.41 | 6.05 | 7.37 | 144.02 | 1.13 | 169.82 | 2.61 | 8.22 | .23 | .05 | 1.01 |
| Pine Nuts Pinyon Dried | 161.03 | 3.29 | 5.47 | 17.29 | 2.66 | 6.50 | 7.28 | 2.27 | 9.92 | 20.41 | 178.04 | .88 | 8.22 | .35 | .06 | 1.24 |
| Pistachio Nuts Dried | 163.58 | 5.84 | 7.03 | 13.72 | 1.74 | 9.26 | 2.08 | 38.27 | 142.60 | 1.70 | 309.87 | 1.93 | 66.06 | .23 | .05 | .31 |
| Walnuts Black Dried | 172.08 | 6.92 | 3.43 | 16.05 | 1.03 | 3.61 | 10.63 | 16.44 | 131.54 | .28 | 148.55 | .88 | 83.92 | .06 | .03 | .20 |
| Walnuts English Dried | 182.01 | 4.05 | 5.19 | 17.55 | 1.58 | 4.02 | 11.09 | 26.65 | 89.87 | 2.84 | 142.32 | .68 | 35.15 | .11 | .04 | .29 |
If you would like more information on these or other foods, visit the Nutritional Analysis Tool (NAT) website at http://www.nat.uiuc.edu/mainnat.html. NAT is provided as a public service by the Food Science and Human Nutrition Department at the University of Illinois.
Most avian vets agree: a varied diet is best for companion birds and a formulated diet (pellets) is best for the main component (60-75%) of that diet. Why? A good brand of pellets contains varied and balanced ingredients, is fortified with the needed vitamins, calcium, and minerals that a bird needs, and only needs supplementation (25-40%) with fresh healthy foods. (Why be a slave to the chopping board for the total diet?)
But how do you find a good pellet? There are so many to choose from! It's easier than you think. Many commericial diets out there contain unecessary and possibly harmful ingredients. When you eliminate pellets with these ingredients, the list narrows!
What should you avoid? Toxic preservatives (ethoxyquin, BHA, BHT) and artificial colorings.
What should you ideally look for? A brand that is organic (pesticides kill birds), has human grade ingredients (if it is certified for human consumption, it is the cleanest food available), and that is fortified with vitamins, calcium, and minerals would be the best choice.At Squawk and Howl, we recommend (for the following reasons):
BEST:
Harrison's (meets all criteria: organic, fortified, human grade, no preservatives, no colorings)
VERY GOOD:
Foundation Formula (meets most criteria: organic, human grade, no preservatives, no colorings, not fortified)
Totally Organic Pellets (TOP) (meets most criteria: organic, human grade, no preservatives, no colorings, not fortified)
Hagen Tropican (meets many criteria: fortified, no preservatives, no colorings, human grade, fortified, not organic)GOOD:
Zupreem Natural (meets many criteria: fortified, no preservatives, no colorings, fortified, not organic, or human grade)
Roudybush (meets many criteria: fortified, no preservatives, no colorings, is fortified, not organic, or human grade)For information & tips on pellet conversion, click here.
Below are charts analyzing nutritional value of pellets. Cells marked only with ? are data that's missing from labels. This doesn't mean the product doesn't contain said item; We just don't know at this date in what amount. We've also only noted the most often listed nutrients / vitamins found on the labels - this also doesn't mean that the diet doesn't contain other nutrients / vitamins. For simplicity sake, we chose one size / formula per company to profile on this page - mainly the size for small birds (lovebird, cockatiels etc.). Measurement units are noted in the header unless specifically stated in the cell itself. Those marked with *are quoted from Feeding Your Pet Bird by Petra Burgmann. Others are taken from literature or product labels from manufacturer. Thanks to Artemis Aviary for starting this intense project!
Analysis
Manufacturer Crude Protein % Crude Fat % Crude Fiber % A
IU / kgD IU / kg E IU/ kg K mg / kg Folic Acid
mg / kgCalcium % Phosphorous
%Sodium
%Iron
mg / kgZinc
mg / kgCopper
mg / kgIodine
mg / kgABBA (2600c) 13.00 1.15 4.00 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Avi-Sci Dr. D's
(Cockatiel maintenance)21.00 3.00 8.00 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Breeder's Blend 15.00 4.0 4.854
11264 998 200 1.0 2.0 .85 .55 .19 90
ppm50
ppm8.5 ppm .3
ppmBrown's (Zoo-Vital) 14.0 5.0 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Foundation Formula 15.3 5.5 5.5 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Hagen
(Lifetime Granules)14.00 9.00 4.00 15000 450 200 2.00 1.50 .60 .40 .09 100 120 35.00 .50 Harrison’s
(Fine Grind)15.00 5.50 4.40 8676 1077 300 3.52 3.8 .61 .45 .046 86 27 10 .77 Hartz (Cockatiel) ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Higgins / Nederlands
(Vita-Krunch – Cockatiel)16.00 4.00 5.00 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Kaytee (Exact Conversion & Weaning) 15.0 6.0 5.0 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Kaytee (Exact Organic) 15.0 6.0 5.0 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Kaytee (Exact Rainbow
Maintenance)14.0 5.00 5.0 ? ? ? ? ? .30 ? ? ? ? ? ? Kaytee (Exact Original) 14.0 5.00 5.0 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? L'Avian (L'Choice Cockatiel Maintenance) 14.0 4.0 8.0 14000 IU 400 40 ? ? 1.50 .80 ? ? ? ? ? L/M Animal Farms
(Perfect Pellets)15.0 6.0 2.5 8000 500 50 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? LaFeber
(Cockatiel)14.00 4.00 2.00 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Lake’s
(Maintenance)12.00 4.50 5.00 11038 2649 66 70 1 .85 .77 .18 70 50 5 .70 Marion Zoological (Scenic) 20.0 4.0 5.0 8000 1600 200 4 ppm 500 ppb 1.40 .70 .20 150 ppm 110 ppm 30 ppm 5.0 ppm Mazuri
(Small Bird Maintenance)15.60 7.00 2.90 12 IU/g 1.8 IU/g 186 3.00 PPM 3.90
PPM.90 .72 .12 140
ppm100
ppm12
ppm1.30
ppmPretty Bird
(Daily Select Small)14.00 5.00 4.00 17500 1000 200 2.20 2.20 .75 *.40 .15 75 99 14.00 1.40 Roudybush
(Maintenance)11.00 7.00 3.50 7875 800 *18 *5.00 *4.30 .4 *.20 *.26 *280 *16 *4.25 *.35 Totally Organic Pellets (TOP) 15.00 6.00 6.00 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Zeigler
(Parrot maintenance)12.00 4.00 4.5 7.46 IU / g 0.93 IU/g 72.28 12.53 ppm 6.02 ppm 0.46 0.54 0.16 133.33 ppm 56.87 ppm 17.11 ppm 0.40 ppm ZuPreem
(Avian Maintenance)14.00 4.00 2.50 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
Preservatives and Ingredients
Manufacturer How Preserved How Flavored Compressed / Expanded? 1st Ingredient 2nd Ingredient 3rd Ingredient Protein Source ABBA (2700) Calcium Propionate & Ethoxyquin Artificial & Natural Expanded Ground Wheat Ground Barley Ground Corn Soy beans
Whole Eggs
Fresh Beef Meat
Fresh Poultry
Fresh FishAvi-Sci Dr. D's
(maintenance)Propionic Acid ?
Compressed Grain Products Processed Grain by-products Plant Protein Products Plant Protein Products Breeder's Blend None Natural
Cold Compressed
(No Steam)Roasted Yellow Corn Meal Alfalfa Meal Soy Protein Extract Soy Protein Extract Brown's (Zoo-Vital) ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Foundation Formula None Natural Compressed Organic Corn Organic Wheat Organic Barley Organic Roasted Soybeans Hagen
(Lifetime Granules)CO2, Calcium propionate Natural Expanded Ground Corn Ground Wheat Soybean Meal Soybean Meal Harrison’s
(Adult Lifetime Fine Grind)None Natural Compressed Ground Organic Yellow Corn Ground Organic Hulled Barley Ground Organic Hulled Millet Ground Organic Roasted Soybeans
Ground Organic Shelled PeanutsHartz (Cockatiel) ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Higgins / Nederlands
(Vita-Krunch - Cockatiel)Propionic Acid Natural Expanded Yellow Corn Soybean Meal Corn Gluten Meal Dried Egg Kaytee (Exact Conversion & Weaning) Propionic Acid,
EthoxyquinArtificial Colors
Natural FlavorsExpanded Ground Corn Ground Wheat Ground Oat Groats -Dried Whole Egg
Soybean mealKaytee (Exact Organic) Mixed Tocopherols Natural Expanded Ground Organic Corn Ground Organic Wheat Roasted Organic Soybeans -Roasted Organic Soybeans Kaytee (Exact Rainbow Maintenance) Propionic Acid, Ethoxyquin Natural Flavors & Artificial Colors Expanded Ground Corn Ground Wheat Ground Oat Groats Dried Whole Egg Kaytee (Exact Original) Propionic Acid, Mixed Tocopherols Natural Expanded Ground Corn Ground Wheat Ground Oat Groats Dried Whole Egg L'Avian (L'Choice Cockatiel Maintenance) Mixed Tocopherols, Citric Acid Artificial Colors Expanded Ground Corn Ground Wheat Ground oat groats Soybean meal
Dried egg ProductL/M Animal Farms
(Perfect Pellets)?
Artificial & Natural ?
Ground Yellow Corn Ground Wheat Dehulled Soybean Meal Dried Egg LaFeber Ethoxyquin ?
Compressed Ground Corn Wheat Oat Groats Soybean Meal
Dried Whole EggLake’s
(Maintenance)BHT Natural Compressed Ground Wheat Ground Corn Dehydrated Alfalfa Meal Fish Solubles
Isolated Soy ProteinMarion Zoological (Scenic) Propionic Acid Natural Expanded Yellow Corn Soybean Meal Corn Gluten Meal Soybean meal Mazuri (Small Bird Maintenance) Calcium propionate, Tocopherols ?
Expanded Ground Corn Wheat Middlings Dehulled Soybean Meal Dried Whole Egg
Soybean MealPretty Bird
(Daily Select Small)BHT Natural & Artificial Expanded Ground Corn Ground Wheat Ground Oat Grouts Pasteurized Egg Product Roudybush
(Maintenance)Vitamin E Natural Compressed Ground Corn Ground Wheat Peanut Meal Soy Meal Totally Organic Pellets (TOP) Vitamin C Natural Compressed Organic Rice Organic Barley Organic Corn Organic Sunflower seed Zeigler Calcium propionate & nitrogen flush Artificial Compressed Ground Wheat Ground Corn Soybean Meal -Fish Meal
Soybean MealZuPreem
(Avian Maintenance)Vitamin E & Vitamin C Natural & Artificial Expanded Ground Corn Soybean Meal Cracked Wheat Wheat Germ Meal Compressed / Expanded Compressed pellets are bound together by steam at high temperatures for short periods of time. Compressed pellets are often pale and resemble rabbit pellets and crumble easily. Expanded (Extruded) pellets are also bound together by high temperatures created by steam, but the cooking and drying process is much longer. They resemble dry cat food.
When converting a bird to a new diet, it is always recommended to get weigh the bird before starting, to get a baseline weight. Weigh your bird each morning (using an accurate digital gram scale) prior to eating to ensure it is not losing too much weight. 10% weight loss over a week is significant and a vet should be consulted. During the conversion period, keep a very close eye on your bird's weight.
The #1 reason birds fail to convert to a pelleted (healthier) diet is lack of owner persistence! Please follow through to ensure your bird eats a better diet, thereby giving her/him a longer and higher quality life.
There are many methods to conversion, and some work better than others. The commonly used one is mixing pellets gradually into the dish with the seeds (the "mixing method"). This has worked for some, but the problem is that the bird can still completely avoid the pellets and continue to eat the seed. For this reason, Squawk and Howl recommends the "weaning method" over the "mixing method":Weaning method: Put a seed dish in the cage in the morning and in the evening (with a separate dish for pellets) for two hours. (Additionally, always keep pellets, fresh foods, and water in the cage as well.) Gradually reduce the time they get seed (as you see them eating pellets)- two hours becomes one, one becomes a half hour, etc. Since birds primarily eat in the morning and night, you do not have to worry about them starving. But the bird will have to try the pellets when they get hungry during the day.
Mash Method: Another method is to serve pellets in a different form. For example, soaking it in water or apple juice and creating a mash out of it. (If you try this, please note that this food cannot be left all day, since they start to spoil quickly. Maximum: 1 hour.) Many birds might try this, but here's the catch: not all pellets are in a mashed form. You will have to crush them with a rolling pin or buy a ready-made mash, such as the Harrison's brand, however, does have a mashed form made primarily for finches that is also good for converting picky birds if you find this is the only way to get your bird to try pellets.
Cookie Dough Method: Another way to convert a bird is to mix Harrison's Fine Grind and your bird's seed, cover with water & wait 5 minutes. Stir with a fork until the mix has a cookie-dough consistency. Feed this (with perhaps a few seeds pressed into the top to get the bird started) daily. Only make as much as the bird can eat for two days, max. Store in fridge.
Tips to Tempt Your Bird with Pellets
1. Many companies offer free samples. Try several brands.
2. Combine cooked pasta, a favorite strained baby food (like carrots or applesauce) & stir in the pellets.
3. Pulverize pellets & add to soft foods.
4. Push pellets into soft cooked beans, a piece of cheese, sweet potato, cooked carrot, or bread.
5. Eat WITH your bird- birds eat as a flock. Praise the bird for eating pellets.
6. Make a tiny peanut butter & pellet sandwich.
7. Eat them first, then offer them to the bird. Act as if they are the best thing in the world. Or, have them see another bird eating pellets, and praise that bird.
8. Place the pellet dish near the highest perch in the cage.Even after your bird appears to be converted, continue to watch his weight for at least a month after the apparent conversion. In most birds, the color of his dropping may change (typically from green to a brown) once he has been converted to a pelleted diet. Conversion will without a doubt be the most difficult part of feeding your bird pellets, but fitting pellets into your bird's diet properly and healthily is just as important. Just as an all-seed diet isn't good for your bird, neither is an all-pellet diet. Seeds are a natural part of your bird's diet in the wild, and should continue to be a small part of your bird's domesticated diet as well.
With your pellets there should be a chart saying how much pellets you should feed your bird daily. For the Harrison's brand, this can be found on their website. For each breed of bird, there are directions as to how much pellets to give them.
Birds are prey animals who hide their illnesses or injuries as a survival instinct.
It is therefore very important to get an annual exam (with tests) by a board certified avian vet (BCAV).
It is also important to pay attention to your bird's behavior and droppings to monitor if they are sick or injured.
Please establish a relationship with a board certified avian vet in the first week with your new bird.
In the meantime, you may also look here:E-VeT is Free!
Advice from a BCAV who has examined your bird always supercedes any information you find on the web or in books, including the information below.Please read this excellent article called "Planning for Veterinary Emergencies". Buy a Gram Scale! Assemble a First Aid Kit! Keep it stocked!
Below is a chart of symptoms and some basic first aid and what to do in an emergency.
Problem/Symptoms- How to Tell Possible Causes/Comments First Aid Measures to Take Animal Attack
If you have a multi-species household, birds and predators must not be left alone- even for a minute.
If you take your bird outside, please remember to use a carrier, harness, or cage. Never leave a bird outside unsupervised.Call vet immediately.
Whether there are visible injuries or not, a vet must be contacted.
Dogs, cats, and other animals have high levels of bacteria that is toxic to a bird if they ingest it while preening. There may be internal injuries.This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
Bleeding from Feather *Trauma
*Injury to pin feathers (feather growing out on on clipped wings with no others next to it for support)
*Night fright broke blood feather (on mainly cockatiels)
*MalnutritionTry first aid suggestions. If results are not immediately seen, contact a vet.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Prevent flapping. Clean affected feather & apply corn starch or flour. If bleeding persists, apply a tiny drop of Superglue.Bleeding from Nail
*Cut Too Short
*Injury (caught on frayed rope or unsafe toys)
*Nail Too Long
*Improper Diet
*Liver Problems
*Nail BitingTry first aid suggestions. If results are not immediately seen, contact a vet.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Apply corn starch or flour. If fleshy quick is exposed, cut back flush with nail bed. Grind in Monsel’s Solution, styptic powder, or Qwik-Stop.Burns Heat: contact with hot cooking oil, hot water, or hot surface, check fed formula that is too hot
Electrical: biting electrical cord
Chemical: ingesting caustic chemicalCall vet immediately.
This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
Cloacal (Rectal) Prolapse
(Under the bird near the tail is a hole called the vent or cloaca. Check to make sure it is a clean hole, no red mass protruding or coming out.)*Mass in Cloaca
*Egg Binding
*Tumor
*Papillomatosis
*Malnutrition
*Excessive sexual stimulationCall vet immediately.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
If there are droppings clinging to vent (no prolapse), please see “Droppings Clinging to Vent”, below)
Diarrhea/Excess Urine/Wet droppings If unformed feces (pathologic): virus, bacteria, fungi, parasites, poisons, chlamydiosis, foreign body, malnutrition
If increase in fluid (polyuria): stress, excitement and overconsumption of watery foods, kidney diseaseCall vet immediately.
This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
See Poopology section for help in evaluating droppings.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Pathologic: Place wax paper on bottom of cage in order to save fresh wet sample of droppings for vet.
Polyuria: Start feeding baby cereal mixed with 1 tsp. psyllium & 2 cups Pedialyte. Administer Pepto Bismol with a syringe (1 drop per cocktiel sized bird).Droppings Clinging to Vent, Droppings are Discolored Discolored: illness, ingested something that colored feces
Clinging to vent: clumsy, young, or handicapped bird dragging body in feces
Call vet immediately.
This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
See Poopology section for help in evaluating droppings.
Egg-Binding
(Hens only: lethargy, abdominal enlargement or straining, previous nesting activity; common in small birds)*General Malnutrition- Especially Protein, Vitamin A, D3, or Calcium
*First Egg, Soft Shelled Egg, or Hybrid Egg
*Over-Production
*Heritary Factors
*Cold Environment
*Lack of Exercise
Breeding is a challenge best left up to professionals. Please do not get your bird a mate. There are too many things that can go wrong, and there are too many homeless birds that need homes already. Please do not contribute to the bird overpopulation problem!
If you feel your bird needs company, try spending more time with the bird yourself, getting a different breed of bird, or a same-sex bird of the same breed.
If a hen begins laying without a male present, take health precautions by reducing daylight hours, re-arranging her cage, and not oversupplying food. Allow the bird to sit on the eggs until she loses interest.Call vet immediately.
This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Do NOT give oil orally or via the vent (aka rectum, cloaca).Eye Abnomalities or Discharge *Injury
*Infection (virus, psittcosis, mycoplasma, coliforms)
*Lid Abnormalities
*Malnutrition
*SinusitisCall vet immediately.
This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Apply natural or hypo-tears to affected eye. Do NOT use Murine or Visine or anti-biotic drops/ointments.Lacerations, Cuts, Puncture Wounds *Injury
*Hazardous Environment
*Fighting
*Flying into Ceiling Fans
*Bite Wounds from Other AnimalsCall vet immediately.
This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Apply pressure bandage to contriol bleeding. If bleeding is coming from feather tip, corn starch or flour may be used to stop bleeding. Do NOT use styptic powder or ointment, as it burns skin. If injury is from animal bite, contact vet immediately!Listlessness, Excessive Sleeping, Bird on Cage Floor Excessively (Not on Perch), Appears Weak *Head Trauma
*Toxin Ingestion
*Overheating
*Central Nervous System Infection
*Tumor
*Severe Metabolic Disease.Call vet immediately.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
For head trauma, keep cool (not too hot or cold).Limb- Loss of Use, Paralysis Leg:
Paralysis, Soft Tissue Trauma, Fractures, Tumors, Egg Binding, Gout, Metal Toxicities
Wing:
Soft Tissue Trauma, Bony Trauma, Heavy Metal ToxicityCall vet immediately.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
For a broken wing, slip a snug (not tight) stocking over the body (with the toe cut off for an opening for the head) or use vet wrap to immobilize.Oil or Grease Contamination *Contact with Household Oil
*Application of Greasy, Over-the-Counter Ointment or Other Medication
*Contact with Oily SubstancesTry first aid suggestions. If results are not immediately seen, contact a vet.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Remove oil immediately. Wash with baby shampoo or organic shampoo and rinse thoroughly. Dry immediately (blot with towel & blow dry on low). Repeat as many times as needed. Be sure to wrap bird in towel to prevent preening until clean.Overheating
(panting, holds wings away from body)*No Shade or Retreat from Sun
*Left in Car
*Improper Supplemental Heat
*ObesityCall vet immediately.
This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Place feet and legs in cool water, mist feathers down to the skin with water.Passing whole seeds *Gastrintestinal (GI) Irritation or Disturbance
*Grit Obstruction
*Viral Diseases
*Parasites
*MalnutritionCall vet immediately.
This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Offer soft foods.Poisoning Ingested: pesticides, disinfectants, heavy metals (tire balances, curtain weights, solder, wine bottle foil, leaded glass, galvanized wire). Ingestion of inappropriate items (called pica) may be due to malnutrition.
Inhaled: paint fumes, overheated non-stick coatings, barbeque smoke, cigarette smoke, hair sprayCall vet immediately.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Inhaled: Provide fresh air, ventilationRespiratory Symptoms(Coughing, Sneezing, Wheezing, Runny Nose, Clicking when Breathing, Labored Breathing, Change of Voice, Breathing Difficulties) Amazons, Macaws: air sac or other respitory infections from viruses, chlamydia, bacteria, fungi, parasites, malnutrition
Budgies (aka Parakeets): iodine deficiency, tumors, obesity
All species: foreign body in nares or trachea, egg-binding, irritation from cigarette smoke, plastic, rug cleanersCall vet immediately.
This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Offer fresh air.Vomiting/Regurgitation *Normal Regurgitation to Perceived Mate (Person, Bird, Mirrored Surface)
*Obstruction by Foreign Bodies (including feather from recent preening)
*GI Irritation or Infection
*Poisoning (Pesticide, Heavy Metal)Call vet immediately.
This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird.
Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
ADDITIONAL FIRST AID:
Remove food and water.
Warmth:
Keep bird in warm environment (unless indicated otherwise in the chart above) of 85-90 F. A heating pad or water bottle under or clipped to a corner the cage (with a perch or nesting area there in the corner), a reptile heater or lamp (75-100 watts, away from where bird can come into contact), or an incubator specifically for this purpose can be used. Be careful not to overheat. Monitor the bird every so often to ensure this. Too hot would be panting, holding wings out away from the body. Too cold would be feathers fluffed up for an extended period.
Food and Water:
Keep favorite foods and water close to sleeping area, so little effort is exerted on looking for food. Millet spray is usually a treat for birds and eaten.
Sleeping/resting area:
Birds who are too weak to perch, have paralysis, or fractures should have perches removed from the cage & given a soft clean place to sleep (paper towels are insulation & can be easily cleaned up & replaced and make a good sleeping area) at the bottom of the cage.
Energy:
Small birds become debilitated faster than larger birds. A few drops of warm (not hot), strong coffee solution (That's right! We said coffee! We KNOW it's toxic in frequent doses, but it will not hurt your bird in this small, one-time amount) with a high concentration of sugar, administered with a syringe or eye dropper can provide a burst of energy in order to get the bird to a vet. Gatorade or Pedialyte can also be given.
Medications:
Do NOT give the bird over-the-counter medications from the pet shop, especially anti-biotics. These are too weak to work & may skew vet lab results, delaying proper treatment.
Poopology
(for more information, please check out Poopology 101 and Poopology 201:Clean wax paper or other smooth surfaces can be used to collect droppings to evaluate or take to the vet.
Bird poop has three parts. All three should be examined on a regular basis. A sick bird may show a change in the volume, color, consistency, or frequency of droppings.
As birds are prey animals who hide their illnesses, droppings are one of the best and first ways to evaluate illness.
It is for these reasons that you should not use substrate on your cage dropping pan. For more info
Here are notes about the three parts:
1. Feces: solid waste which should be coiled neatly on itself. The normal appearance is usually soft and brown when on a formulated diet (pellets) but may be abnormally dry and black or green with a seed diet. Color may also be affected by colorful foods, such as carrots or beets (orange/red/pink tint) or greens (greenish tint). If the feces are not the right color, and the bird has not consumed dyed toys, items or high pigment foods, a vet should be seen immediately. Neon green feces are a sign of illness, but other greens are not.
2. Urates: creamy white semi-solids which surround part of the coil, which are waste from the kidneys. If the urates are not white, and the bird has not consumed dyed toys/safe items or high pigment foods, a vet should be seen immediately.
3. Urine: which is supposed to be clear. The normally clear urine may be increased in amount when excess consumption of fruit or vegetables. Again, any discoloring in urine, when the bird has not consumed dyed toys/safe items or high pigment foods, means a vet should be seen immediately.
Note: Many birds have a larger poop than normal first thing in the morning, if they are laying eggs, or are babies on formula or crop milk.