Access to accurate and up-to-date information on bird care is essential in order to make good decisions for your feathered friends. Please consult your Board Certified Avian Vet (ABVP or ECAMS) for follow-up and detailed answers to your questions. Advice from a vet who has examined your bird always supercedes any information you find on the web or in books, including the information below.
These articles are written, reprinted and/or adapted here for your information and benefit. Topics in Alpha Order.

Avian Rescue Related Readings & Links:

The Basics:

Behavior: (more topics to come!)

Breeding Related Readings:

Cage, Playgym, & Cage Furnishings:

What Makes a GOOD Cage For My Bird?
The cage: What is the right size & bar spacing for my bird?
What is a GOOD toy?
How do I make my own toys that my bird will like?
How Should I Equip the Cage?
The Importance of Playgyms

Care:

Full Spectrum Lighting vs. Sunlight
Air Filtration
Over-the-Counter Bird Medicines
All About Wing Clipping
A Clean Home is a Bird-Healthy Home
Baths and Your Bird
Estate Planning: Caring for Your Bird Even After You Die

Dangers & Cautions:

Top 10 Dangers in the Home
Toxic Plant List
Toxic Household Product List
OK- But What Cleaners Can I Use?
Dangerous Products Pet Stores Try To Sell You
Taking Your Bird Outdoors
Why Airborne Stuff Will Kill Your Birds

Diet:

Proper Avian Nutrition Plan
Pellets- Which One? + Nutritional Values
Pellet Conversion Tips
Nutritional Values of Seed and Nuts

Medicine:

How to Find a Good Avian Vet
Bird Illnesses and Injuries
Poopology
All About Eggs and Laying
The Benefits of Aloe Vera
The Benefits of Apple Cider Vinegar
Why Airborne Stuff Will Kill Your Bird
Aspergillosis
Feather Plucking

Recommended Web-Based Community:

All Things Feathered (one of the few places without misinformation, trolls, cliques, and spammers. It also has a wiki of bird information!)

Recomended Sources of Info:

Companion Parrot Quarterly
Good Bird! Magazine
Birds n Ways
Parrot Chronicles
Moving? Help Transporting your Pets!

Supplies:

Standards for a Quality Birdshop
Reputable Places to Get Bird Stuff

Parrots' Bill of Rights (Adapted & Updated by Squawk and Howl)

1. GET TO KNOW ABOUT PARROTS BEFORE YOU BRING ME HOME
I am not a domesticated pet like a dog or cat- I still have the spirit of the jungle in me. I have special needs, which you may find HARD to fill. Please don't learn these too late for my well-being. Continuing education about me is also important. Avian medicine and nutrition advances are happening all the time. Get me from a reputable breeder, store, or rescue- Do NOT acquire me or one of my cousins from a bird mill, irresponsible chain store, or wild from the jungle - it will jeopardize our survival and well-being - and that won't be a party for you either! For a list of educational bird books, click here.

2. GIVE ME THE LARGEST HOME POSSIBLE
I am used to flying through rainforests or savannas. I have given up this great gift for your pleasure. I need room to flap my wings and exercise. I need a places to be other than my cage- get me a playgym or two! Eat & bathe with me- I need to roam from room to room with you and our flock doing the things flocks do! I need toys for my amusement and wood to chew - otherwise, I might confuse your home with the forest and its trees. For information on cages, click here. For information on playgyms, click here.

3. GIVE ME A NUTRITIOUS DIET
I need a wide variety of fresh and nutritious foods, even if they take time to prepare. I cannot survive on seeds alone. Take time to learn what my needs, and preferences are. Food, for parrots, is more than nutrition. It is a social activity that bonds a flock together. Be sure & share mealtimes with me! For proper diet, click here. For pellet information, click here.

4. LET ME HAVE A 'SOCIAL LIFE'
I am a gregarious flock animal - but I am not one of you. I need lots of socialization to learn how to act with you, and with my siblings. I also need to have adequate quality time with you every day - no matter what your schedule or other needs are. I am a living, feeling creature. Above all, I need to be able to have complete trust in you, and count on your predictability in looking after me - EVERY day. I am feathered child of yours now- treat me like you would your own child.

5. LET ME BE CLEAN
I may like to drop food or even throw it, but I need meticulous cleanliness to be healthy. My skin itches without frequent showers, the barbs of my feathers won't seal if they become oily and, worst of all, I may become ill if my food or water is not always sanitary. I am used to living high in the trees, away from my own droppings (and the bacteria that breeds in them). I have not built up the kind of immunity that land-dwelling mammals have. More info on cleanliness here.

6. I NEED MY OWN DOCTOR & SPECIAL CARE
You may not understand my physiology and therefore you may not recognize it early on when I get sick. And it may be too late when you do, because I hide my illnesses (remember what I said about my being an animal of the jungle, where there are lots of predators). And I need an board certified avian vet - a specialist (no HMOs for me please), annual checkups and emergency visits when needed. If you can't afford one, perhaps you shouldn't have taken me home. When you are not around, please be sure to get a qualified, experienced person to spend time with me, out of my cage, and care for me properly. To find a proper vet, click here. To find a good bird sitter, click here.

7. DO NOT PUNISH ME
Just as I don't always understand your peculiarities, you may not understand mine. I don't TRY to get in trouble - remember, a house is not the jungle. If I do screw up, don't yell at me and never hit me. I have sensitive ears and I may never trust you again if you strike me. Hands are sometimes scary things to us (why in the world would you not be zygodactylous like us?). Even more importantly, we don't learn by punishment. We are gentle creatures who only strike back to protect ourselves; we learn through patience and love. Learn LOTS about parrot behavior from the experts- click here.

8. SPEAK MY LANGUAGE
I know you get upset with me when I knock over my water bowl, throw food, scream or pluck my feathers. I don't do these to annoy you - I am probably trying to tell you something (perhaps that I am hurting, lonely, or sad). Learn to speak MY (body) language. Remember that I alone, of all creatures on this planet, learn to speak yours! Learn LOTS about parrot behavior from the experts- click here.

9. SEE ME AS AN INDIVIDUAL
I am a unique and feeling being. No two of us are alike. Please don't be disappointed in me if I don't talk like you wanted, or can't do the tricks that your friend's parrot can do. But if you pay close attention to me (and I always empathize with you, whether you know it or not), I will show you a unique being who will give you so much more than talking and playing. Give me a chance to show you who I am; I think you'll find the effort worth it.
And remember - I am not an ornament; I do not enhance ANY living room decor. And I am not a status symbol - if you use me as such, I might nip at your up-turned nose (and you would deserve it)!

10. SHARE YOUR LOVE WITH ME- ALWAYS
Above all, please remember that you are my Special Person. I put all my trust and faith in you. We parrots are used to being monogamous (no bar-hopping for us!). So please don't go away for long periods or give me away - that would be a sadness from which I may never recover. If that seems to be asking a lot, remember - you could have learned about my needs before bringing me home.
Even having a baby or taking a new job isn't a fair reason - you made a commitment to me FIRST. And if you think that you must leave me because you might die, provide for me forever after you leave. I may live to a ripe old age but I can't provide for myself. Remember I'm in a small cage amongst people who are not of my blood.
And I know it may be difficult for you, but I need you there at the end of my life (should I go before you). I need to feel your love as the last thing that I experience. And should you go before me, please provide for me so that I can live out my life in comfort and happiness.

11. YOUR RIGHTS
You have lots of rights, but I can only assure one. That is, if you treat me the way I described above, I will reward you with unwavering love, humor, knowledge, beauty, dedication - and a sense of wonder and awe you haven't felt since you were a child. When you took me home, you became my Flock Leader, indeed, my entire universe - for life. I would hang the moon and stars for you if I could. We are one in Heart and Soul.

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Top 10 Dangers in the Home

Pet birds are particularly vulnerable to a broad assortment of household dangers.
There are several reasons for this, including a bird's small size, fast metabolism, and hypersensitive respiratory system. But what parrot isn't curious? Pet birds have a passionate interest in exploring everything with their beaks. Be vigilant about protecting your bird from the dangers in your home.

1) Poisoning
A bird's health is endangered by a wide variety of toxic substances that are commonly found in the home. Poisons enter the body through ingestion (eating) or inhalation (breathing them in). One of the most common poisons for pet birds is insecticides or pesticides. Other poisons include ammonia, bleach, many glues, nail polish remover, oven cleaner, paint, perfumed candles, and heavy metals (e.g. lead and zinc that may even come from a "cheap cage"). Poisonous plants are also dangerous (See Toxic Plant list).

2) Non-Stick Coatings
While technically a poison, non-stick coatings (like Teflon, Stainmaster, and Scotchguarding) demand special mention because so many household products contain this fatal product. Any coating that contains PTFE is a poison, to birds AND humans. Many companies are now purporting their non-stick surfaces as "animal safe" or even "bird safe". If they contain even trace amounts of PTFE this is NOT TRUE. When overheated, non-stick coating on cookware emits fumes that are very toxic to inhale - and the temperatures recorded that have killed birds keep getting lower and lower! It used to be that people thought only in excess of 500 F could kill a bird. But sadly, this is not true. Birds are particularly susceptible to the toxicity in this poison- it affects them within hours. Teflon is found on non-stick cookware, in waffle irons, bread machines, on irons, ironing board covers, curling irons, space heaters, blow dryers, fabrics that are "Scotchguarded" or have "Stainmaster", George Foreman Grills, many brands of microwave popcorn bags, and other appliances. Best to purge your house of as much as possible. By the way, this stuff is not good for humans, either. It is a known human carcinogen, so why cook in it?

3) Open Pools of Water
Toilets are the most common source of open water in your home. It is all too common for pet birds to fall in and drown. Other water dangers to watch for: sinks, bathtubs, buckets, and water bowls of dogs or cats. Hot pots of water on the stove are a frequent cause of death in pet birds.

4) Unhealthy Foods
Unhealthy foods might lead to death in pet birds. Foods high in sugar or salt cannot be properly digested. Fatty foods may lead to disease. Some foods are imminently dangerous. Avoid avocados, chocolate, caffeine and alcoholic beverages. Also avoid feeding a primarily seed-based diet.Click here for GOOD foods!

5) Electrical Cords
Birds explore with their beaks like puppies and human babies explore with their mouths. They often find exposed electrical fun to bite. Keep all cords and appliances away from your birdcage. Conceal cords as much as possible.

6) Toys
Make sure your parrots are not able to break off or remove any toy parts. Small parts can be easily swallowed. Improperly sized toys are dangerous. Provide your bird with the correct sized toy for their species. Rope toys should be examined for safety on a regular basis. They are dangerous if they have frays that are long enough to tangle up around a toe or even a neck. More on toys

7) Ceiling Fans
Ceiling fans pose a serious danger when unclipped birds (please consider clipping!) fly into them. Birds are inclined to be tense with things moving above them and many birds find a ceiling fan to be stressful.

8) Windows, Doors, and Mirrors
Windows and mirrors pose a danger when birds fly into them. Frightened birds naturally fly toward the light. This is why they aim toward windows and mirrors. Keep your birds wings clipped to minimize this risk. Even interior doors can be risky. If your bird likes to sit on the top of an open door it could be injured when the door is closed.

9) Other Pets
While birds often live happily with other family pets, you should always be careful when your bird is around them. The fluttering motion of birds attracts the prey instinct in cats and dogs and the bacteria in a bite, scratch, or lick can be fatal to your bird within hours.

10) Air Quality
Birds are especially sensitive to contaminants in the air. Aerosol products of any kind should not be used around your bird. Cigarette smoke has been implicated in respiratory disease in pet birds. Even nicotine from your hands can transfer onto your bird's feathers and cause illness and feather plucking. Carbon monoxide is also dangerous to birds, so use a carbon monoxide detector in the home and be careful not to run your vehicle in an attached garage. More on air filtration. More on Asper.

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Toxic Plant List

This is only a partial list; if you don't see the one you are concerned about, do not assume it is safe. You can call the San Francisco Bay Area Regional Poison Center at (415) 666-2845 for plant identification and toxicity information.

A: Acokanthera, Aconite, Agaric Mushroom, Alacia, Amaryllis, American Yew Apple (seeds), Apple (seeds), Angel's Trumpet, Autumn Crocus, Avocado, Azalea

B: Balsam, Balsam Pear, Baneberry (root), Belladonna, Bird of Paradise, Bishop's Weed, Bitter Melon, Bittersweet, Black Locust, Bleeding Heart, Blue Flag, Blue Cohosh, Blue-Green Algae, Boxwood, Bracken Fern, Broomcorn Grass, Buckeye, Buckthorn, Burdock, Buttercup

C: Cabbage, Caladium, Calla Lily, Camel Bush, Candelabra Tree, Cardinal Flower, Carnation, Castor Bean, Catclaw Acacia, Chalice Vine, Cherry (leaves, tigs, seeds/pits), Chinaberry, Chokecherry, Christmas Candle, Clematis, Coffee Bean, Coral Plant, Cotoneaster, Cowslip, Creeping Charlie, Crocus, Croton, Crown of Thorns, Cycad or Sago, Cycas

D: Daffodil, Daphne, Datura, Delphinium Laurel, Deadly Amanita, Deadly Nightshade, Death Camas, Diffenbachia, Delphinium, Devil's Ivy, Dumbcane

E: Eggplant, Elderberry, Elephant's Ear (Taro), English Lily of the Valley, Ergot, Euonymus, European Pennyroyal

F: False Henbane, Fava Bean, Figs, Ficus, Firethorn, Four o'Clock, Foxglove, Fruit Pits, Fungus

G: Ghostweed, Glory Bean, Golden Chain, Grapes, Chilean (There is a toxic mold growing in the flesh that is not visible. It is killing parrots around the world. Avoid grapes from Chile!), Ground Cherry

H: Heliotrope, Hemlock, Henbane, Holly and Berries, Honeysuckle, Horse Chestnut, Horse Nettle, Horsetail, Hyacinth, Hydrangea

I: Indian Licorice, Indian Turnip, Inkberry, Iris (Blue Flag), Ivy (Boston, English and Baltic)

J: Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Jasmine, Java Bean, Jequirity Bean, Jerusalem Cherry, Jessamine, Jimsonweed, Jonquil, Juniper

K:

L: Lantana, Larkspur, Laurel, Lily of the Valley, Lima Bean, Lobelia, Locoweed, Lords & Ladies, Lupine

M: Mandrake, Mango (tree, not fruit), Marsh Marigold, Marigold, Marijuana, Mayapple, Meadow, Mescal Bean, Milkweed, Mistletoe, Mock Orange, Monkshood, Moonseed, Morning Glory (seed), Mountain Laurel, Mushrooms

N: Narcissus, Nightshade, Nutmeg

O: Oak, Oleander, Onion

P: Peach (pits/seeds, twigs), Pear (seeds), Pencil Tree, Pennyroyal, Peony, Periwinkle, Peyote, Philodendron, Pigweed, Pikeweed, Pine (needles, twigs, sap), Plum (pits), Poinsettia, Poison Hemlock, Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Poison Sumac, Pokeberry, Pokeweed, Poppy, Potato (shoots and eyes), Pothos, Precatory Beans, Primrose, Privet, Prunus Species (seed/pits), Pyracantha

Q:

R: Ragwort, Ranculus, Red Maple, Red Sage, Rhododendron, Rhubarb, Rosary Bean/Pea

S: Saffron, Sage, Sandbox Tree, Scarlet, Seed Pits: (Almond, Apple, Apricot, Cherry, Peach, Pear and Plum), Shamrock Plant, Skunk Cabbage, Snowdrop, Snow on the Mountain, Sorrel, Spindle Tree, Spurges, Squill, Star of Bethlehem, String of Beads/Pearls, Sweet Pea (seeds)

T: Taro, Thornapple, Tobacco, Tomato (leaves, stems, & roots), Toyon Leaves, Trumpet, Tulip

U: Umbrella Plant

V: Vetches, Vinca, Virginia Creeper

W: Water hemlock, Waxberry, Wisteria, Witchhazel, Woodrose

X:

Y: Yam Bean, Yellow Jimsonweed, Yew

Z:

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Toxic Household Product List

Birds are more sensitive than humans and feel the effects of their toxicity on their systems before humans do. Ever hear of "the canary in the coalmine"? Miners kept canaries as beacons of gas leaks, fires, and other dangers. If the canary died, the miners would run to the surface, escaping the danger that would eventually kill them also. Rather than thinking that eliminating these toxins in your home is a burden, it is more appropriate to thank your new feathered friend from sparing you from things that also detrimentally affect human health.

Aerosols (Propellants)
Aluminum "Cooking Bags"
Commercial Cleaning and "Freshening" Products (such as automatic dishwashing soap, bleach, carpet or fabric freshener (like Fabreeze), furniture polish, pine oil cleaners, leather protectant sprays, plug-in air fresheners, potpourri oils)
Avocado
Barbeque Smoke & Briquettes
Candles
Carpet, New (Fumes)
Cigarettes and Cigarette Smoke
Coffee
Chocolate
Epoxy Glue
Essential Oils
Ethylene Glycol (Antifreeze, Film Canisters)
Febreeze (The company labels it "pet safe" but that only applies to cats & dogs.)
Flea Collars and Sprays
Glade & Similar "Air Freshening" Products
Homemade Play Dough (Toxic Levels of Salt)
Incense
Linoleum (The old stuff (only)- it contains lead)
Matches
Microwave Popcorn Bags (contain Teflon)- get an air popper!
Mothballs
Medicines (Both Prescription and Over-the-Counter)
Oven Cleaners
Many Commercial Personal Care and Toiletry Products (general rule: if you can't pronounce it, why use it and keep it in the home?)
Non-Stick Cookware & Coatings (Teflon, Stainmaster, Scotchguard)
Pesticide Strips, Sprays, Foggers
Plant Spikes and all Fertilizer
Potpourri Oils
Poisonous plants (see list)
PTFE (the ingredient in ALL non-stick coatings)
Scotchguarding
Self-Cleaning Ovens
Spray Starch
Stainmaster Treatments
Tea Tree Oil
Teflon
Thermometers

More Common Dangers In Your Home

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Nutritional Value of Seed and Nuts

We have all wondered which foods contain the most nutrition for our birds. The tables below contain information on the nutritional values of these foods prepared in a variety of ways. Learn which contain the most beneficial vitamins and minerals your pets require and which is the most nutritious way to serve them.

The information included below comes from the USDA Handbook #8 and information from food companies. The numbers used are averages. Be aware that nutrient content of foods varies based upon how they are grown and stored. However, you can use these numbers as a guideline in choosing food for your bird's diet.

The numbers in the tables provide the nutrition found in 1 ounce of food.

If you would like more information on these or other foods, visit the Nutritional Analysis Tool (NAT) website at http://www.nat.uiuc.edu/mainnat.html. NAT is provided as a public service by the Food Science and Human Nutrition Department at the University of Illinois.

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Nutritional Values of Pellets

Most avian vets agree: a varied diet is best for companion birds and a formulated diet (pellets) is best for the main component (60-75%) of that diet. Why? A good brand of pellets contains varied and balanced ingredients, is fortified with the needed vitamins, calcium, and minerals that a bird needs, and only needs supplementation (25-40%) with fresh healthy foods. (Why be a slave to the chopping board for the total diet?)

But how do you find a good pellet? There are so many to choose from! It's easier than you think. Many commericial diets out there contain unecessary and possibly harmful ingredients. When you eliminate pellets with these ingredients, the list narrows!

What should you avoid? Toxic preservatives (ethoxyquin, BHA, BHT) and artificial colorings.
What should you ideally look for? A brand that is organic (pesticides kill birds), has human grade ingredients (if it is certified for human consumption, it is the cleanest food available), and that is fortified with vitamins, calcium, and minerals would be the best choice.

At Squawk and Howl, we recommend (for the following reasons):

BEST:

Harrison's (meets all criteria: organic, fortified, human grade, no preservatives, no colorings)

VERY GOOD:

Foundation Formula (meets most criteria: organic, human grade, no preservatives, no colorings, not fortified)
Totally Organic Pellets (TOP) (meets most criteria: organic, human grade, no preservatives, no colorings, not fortified)

Hagen Tropican (meets many criteria: fortified, no preservatives, no colorings, human grade, fortified, not organic)

GOOD:

Zupreem Natural (meets many criteria: fortified, no preservatives, no colorings, fortified, not organic, or human grade)
Roudybush (meets many criteria: fortified, no preservatives, no colorings, is fortified, not organic, or human grade)

For information & tips on pellet conversion, click here.

Below are charts analyzing nutritional value of pellets. Cells marked only with ? are data that's missing from labels. This doesn't mean the product doesn't contain said item; We just don't know at this date in what amount. We've also only noted the most often listed nutrients / vitamins found on the labels - this also doesn't mean that the diet doesn't contain other nutrients / vitamins.  For simplicity sake, we chose one size / formula per company to profile on this page - mainly the size for small birds (lovebird, cockatiels etc.). Measurement units are noted in the header unless specifically stated in the cell itself. Those marked with *are quoted from Feeding Your Pet Bird by Petra Burgmann. Others are taken from literature or product labels from manufacturer. Thanks to Artemis Aviary for starting this intense project!

Analysis

Manufacturer

Crude Protein %

Crude Fat %

Crude Fiber %

A  IU / kg

D IU / kg

E  IU/ kg

K mg / kg

Folic Acid mg / kg

Calcium %

Phosphorous %

Sodium  %

Iron mg / kg

Zinc mg / kg

Copper mg / kg

Iodine mg / kg

ABBA (2600c)

13.00

1.15

4.00

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Avi-Sci Dr. D's  (Cockatiel maintenance)

21.00

3.00

8.00

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Breeder's Blend

15.00

4.0

4.854

11264

998

200

1.0

2.0

.85

.55

.19

90 ppm

50 ppm

8.5 ppm

.3 ppm

Brown's (Zoo-Vital)

14.0

5.0

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Foundation Formula

15.3

5.5

5.5

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Hagen  (Lifetime Granules)

14.00

9.00

4.00

15000

450

200

2.00

1.50

.60

.40

.09

100

120

35.00

.50

Harrison’s  (Fine Grind)

15.00

5.50

4.40

8676

1077

300

3.52

3.8

.61

.45

.046

86

27

10

.77

Hartz (Cockatiel)

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Higgins / Nederlands  (Vita-Krunch – Cockatiel)

16.00

4.00

5.00

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Kaytee (Exact Conversion & Weaning)

15.0

6.0

5.0

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Kaytee (Exact Organic)

15.0

6.0

5.0

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Kaytee (Exact Rainbow Maintenance)

14.0

5.00

5.0

?

?

?

?

?

.30

?

?

?

?

?

?

Kaytee (Exact Original)

14.0

5.00

5.0

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

L'Avian (L'Choice Cockatiel Maintenance)

14.0

4.0

8.0

14000 IU

400

40

?

?

1.50

.80

?

?

?

?

?

L/M Animal Farms (Perfect Pellets)

15.0

6.0

2.5

8000

500

50

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

LaFeber  (Cockatiel)

14.00

4.00

2.00

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Lake’s  (Maintenance)

12.00

4.50

5.00

11038

2649

66

70

1

.85

.77

.18

70

50

5

.70

Marion Zoological (Scenic)

20.0

4.0

5.0

8000

1600

200

4 ppm

500 ppb

1.40

.70

.20

150 ppm

110 ppm

30 ppm

5.0 ppm

Mazuri  (Small Bird Maintenance)

15.60

7.00

2.90

12 IU/g

1.8 IU/g

186

3.00 PPM

3.90 PPM

.90

.72

.12

140 ppm

100 ppm

12 ppm

1.30 ppm

Pretty Bird  (Daily Select Small)

14.00

5.00

4.00

17500

1000

200

2.20

2.20

.75

*.40

.15

75

99

14.00

1.40

Roudybush  (Maintenance)

11.00

7.00

3.50

7875

800

*18

*5.00

*4.30

.4

*.20

*.26

*280

*16

*4.25

*.35

Totally Organic Pellets (TOP)

15.00

6.00

6.00

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Zeigler  (Parrot maintenance)

12.00

4.00

4.5

7.46 IU / g

0.93 IU/g

72.28

12.53 ppm

6.02 ppm

0.46

0.54

0.16

133.33 ppm

56.87 ppm

17.11 ppm

0.40 ppm

ZuPreem  (Avian Maintenance)

14.00

4.00

2.50

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

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Preservatives and Ingredients  

Manufacturer	How Preserved	How Flavored	Compressed / Expanded?	1st Ingredient	2nd Ingredient	3rd Ingredient	Protein Source
ABBA (2700)	Calcium Propionate & Ethoxyquin	Artificial & Natural	Expanded	Ground Wheat	Ground Barley	Ground Corn	Soy beans Whole Eggs Fresh Beef Meat Fresh Poultry Fresh Fish
Avi-Sci Dr. D's (maintenance)	Propionic Acid	?	Compressed	Grain Products	Processed Grain by-products	Plant Protein Products	Plant Protein Products
Breeder's Blend	None	Natural	Cold Compressed (No Steam)	Roasted Yellow Corn Meal	Alfalfa Meal	Soy Protein Extract	Soy Protein Extract
Brown's (Zoo-Vital)	?	?	?	?	?	?	?
Foundation Formula	None	Natural	Compressed	Organic Corn	Organic Wheat	Organic Barley	Organic Roasted Soybeans
Hagen (Lifetime Granules)	CO2, Calcium propionate	Natural	Expanded	Ground Corn	Ground Wheat	Soybean Meal	Soybean Meal
Harrison’s (Adult Lifetime Fine Grind)	None	Natural	Compressed	Ground Organic Yellow Corn	Ground Organic Hulled Barley	Ground Organic Hulled Millet	Ground Organic Roasted Soybeans  Ground Organic Shelled Peanuts
Hartz (Cockatiel)	?	?	?	?	?	?	?
Higgins / Nederlands (Vita-Krunch - Cockatiel)	Propionic Acid	Natural	Expanded	Yellow Corn	Soybean Meal	Corn Gluten Meal	Dried Egg
Kaytee (Exact Conversion & Weaning)	Propionic Acid, Ethoxyquin	Artificial Colors Natural Flavors	Expanded	Ground Corn	Ground Wheat	Ground Oat Groats	-Dried Whole Egg Soybean meal
Kaytee  (Exact Organic)	Mixed Tocopherols	Natural	Expanded	Ground Organic Corn	Ground Organic Wheat	Roasted Organic Soybeans	-Roasted Organic Soybeans
Kaytee (Exact Rainbow Maintenance)	Propionic Acid, Ethoxyquin	Natural Flavors & Artificial Colors	Expanded	Ground Corn	Ground Wheat	Ground Oat Groats	Dried Whole Egg
Kaytee (Exact Original)	Propionic Acid, Mixed Tocopherols	Natural	Expanded	Ground Corn	Ground Wheat	Ground Oat Groats	Dried Whole Egg
L'Avian (L'Choice Cockatiel Maintenance)	Mixed Tocopherols, Citric Acid	Artificial Colors	Expanded	Ground Corn	Ground Wheat	Ground oat groats	Soybean meal Dried egg Product
L/M Animal Farms (Perfect Pellets)	?	Artificial & Natural	?	Ground Yellow Corn	Ground Wheat	Dehulled Soybean Meal	Dried Egg
LaFeber	Ethoxyquin	?	Compressed	Ground Corn	Wheat	Oat Groats	Soybean Meal Dried Whole Egg
Lake’s (Maintenance)	BHT	Natural	Compressed	Ground Wheat	Ground Corn	Dehydrated Alfalfa Meal	Fish Solubles Isolated Soy Protein
Marion Zoological (Scenic)	Propionic Acid	Natural	Expanded	Yellow Corn	Soybean Meal	Corn Gluten Meal	Soybean meal
Mazuri (Small Bird Maintenance)	Calcium propionate, Tocopherols	?	Expanded	Ground Corn	Wheat Middlings	Dehulled Soybean Meal	Dried Whole Egg Soybean Meal
Pretty Bird (Daily Select Small)	BHT	Natural & Artificial	Expanded	Ground Corn	Ground Wheat	Ground Oat Grouts	Pasteurized Egg Product
Roudybush (Maintenance)	Vitamin E	Natural	Compressed	Ground Corn	Ground Wheat	Peanut Meal	Soy Meal
Totally Organic Pellets (TOP)	Vitamin C	Natural	Compressed	Organic Rice	Organic Barley	Organic Corn	Organic Sunflower seed
Zeigler	Calcium propionate & nitrogen flush	Artificial	Compressed	Ground Wheat	Ground Corn	Soybean Meal	-Fish Meal Soybean Meal
ZuPreem (Avian Maintenance)	Vitamin E & Vitamin C	Natural & Artificial	Expanded	Ground Corn	Soybean Meal	Cracked Wheat	Wheat Germ Meal

Compressed / Expanded Compressed pellets are bound together by steam at high temperatures for short periods of time.  Compressed pellets are often pale and resemble rabbit pellets and crumble easily.  Expanded (Extruded) pellets are also bound together by high temperatures created by steam, but the cooking and drying process is much longer.  They resemble dry cat food.
 

Manufacturer	Contact Information
ABBA Products Corporation	(908)353-0669 http://www.abbaseed.com abba2222@aol.com
Avi-Sci, Inc. Dr. D's	(800)942-3438 mike@avi-sci.com http://www.avi-sci.com/
Breeder's Blend	(703)644-6415 info@breedersblend.com http://www.breedersblend.com
Brown's Sons, Inc	(800)334-8816 http://www.fmbrown.com/
Foundation Formula	(877)563-7056 http://www.organicbirdfood.com/ support@organicbirdfood.com
Hagen	(888)BY HAGEN or (800)724-2436 http://www.pubnix.net/~mhagen/
Harrison’s	(800)346-0269 BirdFoods@aol.com http://harrisonsbirdfoods.com/
Hartz Mountain Corporation	(201)271-4800 http://www.hartz.com/
Higgins (Nederlands)	(800)878-2666 higginsgrp@earthlink.net http://www.higginsgrpcorp.com/products.html
Kaytee	(800)KAYTEE-1 customerservice@kaytee.com www.kaytee.com
L'Avian	(800)543-3308 sales@ddcommodities.com http://www.ddcommodities.com/
LaFeber	(800)842-6445 ext. 312 www.lafeber.com
L/M Animal Farms	www.hartz.com
Lake’s	(800)634-2473 lakesinc@winternet.com www.lakesinc.com
Marion Zoological, Inc.	(800)327-7974 http://www.scenicbirdfood.com/scenicbirdfood/
Mazuri	(800)227-8941 mazuri@purina-mills.com http://www.mazuri.com/
Pretty Bird	(800)356-5020 http://www.prettybird.com/
Roudybush	(888)290-BIRD (2473) or (888)286-2473 www.roudybush.com
Totally Organics	(866)867-2473 taylork@totallyorganics.com http://www.totallyorganics.com/
Zeigler	(800) 841-6800 sales@zeiglerfeed.com  http://www.zeiglerfeed.com/
ZuPreem	(800) 345-4767 http://www.zupreem.com/

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Pellet Conversion Techniques

When converting a bird to a new diet, it is always recommended to get weigh the bird before starting, to get a baseline weight. Weigh your bird each morning (using an accurate digital gram scale) prior to eating to ensure it is not losing too much weight. 10% weight loss over a week is significant and a vet should be consulted. During the conversion period, keep a very close eye on your bird's weight.

The #1 reason birds fail to convert to a pelleted (healthier) diet is lack of owner persistence! Please follow through to ensure your bird eats a better diet, thereby giving her/him a longer and higher quality life.

There are many methods to conversion, and some work better than others. The commonly used one is mixing pellets gradually into the dish with the seeds (the "mixing method"). This has worked for some, but the problem is that the bird can still completely avoid the pellets and continue to eat the seed. For this reason, Squawk and Howl recommends the "weaning method" over the "mixing method":

Weaning method: Put a seed dish in the cage in the morning and in the evening (with a separate dish for pellets) for two hours. (Additionally, always keep pellets, fresh foods, and water in the cage as well.) Gradually reduce the time they get seed (as you see them eating pellets)- two hours becomes one, one becomes a half hour, etc. Since birds primarily eat in the morning and night, you do not have to worry about them starving. But the bird will have to try the pellets when they get hungry during the day.

Mash Method: Another method is to serve pellets in a different form. For example, soaking it in water or apple juice and creating a mash out of it. (If you try this, please note that this food cannot be left all day, since they start to spoil quickly. Maximum: 1 hour.) Many birds might try this, but here's the catch: not all pellets are in a mashed form. You will have to crush them with a rolling pin or buy a ready-made mash, such as the Harrison's brand, however, does have a mashed form made primarily for finches that is also good for converting picky birds if you find this is the only way to get your bird to try pellets.

Cookie Dough Method: Another way to convert a bird is to mix Harrison's Fine Grind and your bird's seed, cover with water & wait 5 minutes. Stir with a fork until the mix has a cookie-dough consistency. Feed this (with perhaps a few seeds pressed into the top to get the bird started) daily. Only make as much as the bird can eat for two days, max. Store in fridge.

Tips to Tempt Your Bird with Pellets

1. Many companies offer free samples. Try several brands.
2. Combine cooked pasta, a favorite strained baby food (like carrots or applesauce) & stir in the pellets.
3. Pulverize pellets & add to soft foods.
4. Push pellets into soft cooked beans, a piece of cheese, sweet potato, cooked carrot, or bread.
5. Eat WITH your bird- birds eat as a flock. Praise the bird for eating pellets.
6. Make a tiny peanut butter & pellet sandwich.
7. Eat them first, then offer them to the bird. Act as if they are the best thing in the world. Or, have them see another bird eating pellets, and praise that bird.
8. Place the pellet dish near the highest perch in the cage.

Even after your bird appears to be converted, continue to watch his weight for at least a month after the apparent conversion. In most birds, the color of his dropping may change (typically from green to a brown) once he has been converted to a pelleted diet. Conversion will without a doubt be the most difficult part of feeding your bird pellets, but fitting pellets into your bird's diet properly and healthily is just as important. Just as an all-seed diet isn't good for your bird, neither is an all-pellet diet. Seeds are a natural part of your bird's diet in the wild, and should continue to be a small part of your bird's domesticated diet as well.

With your pellets there should be a chart saying how much pellets you should feed your bird daily. For the Harrison's brand, this can be found on their website. For each breed of bird, there are directions as to how much pellets to give them.

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Bird Illnesses and Injuries

Birds are prey animals who hide their illnesses or injuries as a survival instinct.
It is therefore very important to get an annual exam (with tests) by a board certified avian vet (BCAV).
It is also important to pay attention to your bird's behavior and droppings to monitor if they are sick or injured.
Please establish a relationship with a board certified avian vet in the first week with your new bird.
In the meantime, you may also look here:  E-VeT is Free!
Advice from a BCAV who has examined your bird always supercedes any information you find on the web or in books, including the information below.

Please read this excellent article called "Planning for Veterinary Emergencies".  Buy a Gram Scale! Assemble a First Aid Kit! Keep it stocked!

Below is a chart of symptoms and some basic first aid and what to do in an emergency.

Problem/Symptoms- How to Tell	Possible Causes/Comments	First Aid Measures to Take
Animal Attack	If you have a multi-species household, birds and predators must not be left alone- even for a minute. If you take your bird outside, please remember to use a carrier, harness, or cage. Never leave a bird outside unsupervised.	Call vet immediately. Whether there are visible injuries or not, a vet must be contacted. Dogs, cats, and other animals have high levels of bacteria that is toxic to a bird if they ingest it while preening. There may be internal injuries. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
Bleeding from Feather	*Trauma *Injury to pin feathers (feather growing out on on clipped wings with no others next to it for support) *Night fright broke blood feather (on mainly cockatiels) *Malnutrition	Try first aid suggestions. If results are not immediately seen, contact a vet. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Prevent flapping. Clean affected feather & apply corn starch or flour. If bleeding persists, apply a tiny drop of Superglue.
Bleeding from Nail	*Cut Too Short *Injury (caught on frayed rope or unsafe toys) *Nail Too Long *Improper Diet *Liver Problems *Nail Biting	Try first aid suggestions. If results are not immediately seen, contact a vet. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Apply corn starch or flour. If fleshy quick is exposed, cut back flush with nail bed. Grind in Monsel’s Solution, styptic powder, or Qwik-Stop.
Burns	Heat: contact with hot cooking oil, hot water, or hot surface, check fed formula that is too hot Electrical: biting electrical cord Chemical: ingesting caustic chemical	Call vet immediately. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care.
Cloacal (Rectal) Prolapse (Under the bird near the tail is a hole called the vent or cloaca. Check to make sure it is a clean hole, no red mass protruding or coming out.)	*Mass in Cloaca *Egg Binding *Tumor *Papillomatosis *Malnutrition *Excessive sexual stimulation	Call vet immediately. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. If there are droppings clinging to vent (no prolapse), please see “Droppings Clinging to Vent”, below)
Diarrhea/Excess Urine/Wet droppings	If unformed feces (pathologic): virus, bacteria, fungi, parasites, poisons, chlamydiosis, foreign body, malnutrition If increase in fluid (polyuria): stress, excitement and overconsumption of watery foods, kidney disease	Call vet immediately. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. See Poopology section for help in evaluating droppings. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Pathologic: Place wax paper on bottom of cage in order to save fresh wet sample of droppings for vet. Polyuria: Start feeding baby cereal mixed with 1 tsp. psyllium & 2 cups Pedialyte. Administer Pepto Bismol with a syringe (1 drop per cocktiel sized bird).
Droppings Clinging to Vent, Droppings are Discolored	Discolored: illness, ingested something that colored feces Clinging to vent: clumsy, young, or handicapped bird dragging body in feces	Call vet immediately. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. See Poopology section for help in evaluating droppings.
Egg-Binding (Hens only: lethargy, abdominal enlargement or straining, previous nesting activity; common in small birds)	*General Malnutrition- Especially Protein, Vitamin A, D3, or Calcium *First Egg, Soft Shelled Egg, or Hybrid Egg *Over-Production *Heritary Factors *Cold Environment *Lack of Exercise Breeding is a challenge best left up to professionals. Please do not get your bird a mate. There are too many things that can go wrong, and there are too many homeless birds that need homes already. Please do not contribute to the bird overpopulation problem! If you feel your bird needs company, try spending more time with the bird yourself, getting a different breed of bird, or a same-sex bird of the same breed. If a hen begins laying without a male present, take health precautions by reducing daylight hours, re-arranging her cage, and not oversupplying food. Allow the bird to sit on the eggs until she loses interest.	Call vet immediately. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Do NOT give oil orally or via the vent (aka rectum, cloaca).
Eye Abnomalities or Discharge	*Injury *Infection (virus, psittcosis, mycoplasma, coliforms) *Lid Abnormalities *Malnutrition *Sinusitis	Call vet immediately. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Apply natural or hypo-tears to affected eye. Do NOT use Murine or Visine or anti-biotic drops/ointments.
Lacerations, Cuts, Puncture Wounds	*Injury *Hazardous Environment *Fighting *Flying into Ceiling Fans *Bite Wounds from Other Animals	Call vet immediately. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Apply pressure bandage to contriol bleeding. If bleeding is coming from feather tip, corn starch or flour may be used to stop bleeding. Do NOT use styptic powder or ointment, as it burns skin. If injury is from animal bite, contact vet immediately!
Listlessness, Excessive Sleeping, Bird on Cage Floor Excessively (Not on Perch), Appears Weak	*Head Trauma *Toxin Ingestion *Overheating *Central Nervous System Infection *Tumor *Severe Metabolic Disease.	Call vet immediately. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: For head trauma, keep cool (not too hot or cold).
Limb- Loss of Use, Paralysis	Leg: Paralysis, Soft Tissue Trauma, Fractures, Tumors, Egg Binding, Gout, Metal Toxicities Wing: Soft Tissue Trauma, Bony Trauma, Heavy Metal Toxicity	Call vet immediately. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: For a broken wing, slip a snug (not tight) stocking over the body (with the toe cut off for an opening for the head) or use vet wrap to immobilize.
Oil or Grease Contamination	*Contact with Household Oil *Application of Greasy, Over-the-Counter Ointment or Other Medication *Contact with Oily Substances	Try first aid suggestions. If results are not immediately seen, contact a vet. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Remove oil immediately. Wash with baby shampoo or organic shampoo and rinse thoroughly. Dry immediately (blot with towel & blow dry on low). Repeat as many times as needed. Be sure to wrap bird in towel to prevent preening until clean.
Overheating (panting, holds wings away from body)	*No Shade or Retreat from Sun *Left in Car *Improper Supplemental Heat *Obesity	Call vet immediately. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Place feet and legs in cool water, mist feathers down to the skin with water.
Passing whole seeds	*Gastrintestinal (GI) Irritation or Disturbance *Grit Obstruction *Viral Diseases *Parasites *Malnutrition	Call vet immediately. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Offer soft foods.
Poisoning	Ingested: pesticides, disinfectants, heavy metals (tire balances, curtain weights, solder, wine bottle foil, leaded glass, galvanized wire). Ingestion of inappropriate items (called pica) may be due to malnutrition. Inhaled: paint fumes, overheated non-stick coatings, barbeque smoke, cigarette smoke, hair spray	Call vet immediately. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Inhaled: Provide fresh air, ventilation
Respiratory Symptoms(Coughing, Sneezing, Wheezing, Runny Nose, Clicking when Breathing, Labored Breathing, Change of Voice, Breathing Difficulties)	Amazons, Macaws: air sac or other respitory infections from viruses, chlamydia, bacteria, fungi, parasites, malnutrition Budgies (aka Parakeets): iodine deficiency, tumors, obesity All species: foreign body in nares or trachea, egg-binding, irritation from cigarette smoke, plastic, rug cleaners	Call vet immediately. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Offer fresh air.
Vomiting/Regurgitation	*Normal Regurgitation to Perceived Mate (Person, Bird, Mirrored Surface) *Obstruction by Foreign Bodies (including feather from recent preening) *GI Irritation or Infection *Poisoning (Pesticide, Heavy Metal)	Call vet immediately. This condition may respond briefly to first aid, but a vet must see the bird. Use first aid only until the bird can be seen by a vet. See “Short-Term First Aid” section for care. ADDITIONAL FIRST AID: Remove food and water.

Short-Term First Aid

Warmth:
Keep bird in warm environment (unless indicated otherwise in the chart above) of 85-90 F. A heating pad or water bottle under or clipped to a corner the cage (with a perch or nesting area there in the corner), a reptile heater or lamp (75-100 watts, away from where bird can come into contact), or an incubator specifically for this purpose can be used. Be careful not to overheat. Monitor the bird every so often to ensure this. Too hot would be panting, holding wings out away from the body. Too cold would be feathers fluffed up for an extended period.

Food and Water:
Keep favorite foods and water close to sleeping area, so little effort is exerted on looking for food. Millet spray is usually a treat for birds and eaten.

Sleeping/resting area:
Birds who are too weak to perch, have paralysis, or fractures should have perches removed from the cage & given a soft clean place to sleep (paper towels are insulation & can be easily cleaned up & replaced and make a good sleeping area) at the bottom of the cage.

Energy:
Small birds become debilitated faster than larger birds. A few drops of warm (not hot), strong coffee solution (That's right! We said coffee! We KNOW it's toxic in frequent doses, but it will not hurt your bird in this small, one-time amount) with a high concentration of sugar, administered with a syringe or eye dropper can provide a burst of energy in order to get the bird to a vet. Gatorade or Pedialyte can also be given.

Medications:
Do NOT give the bird over-the-counter medications from the pet shop, especially anti-biotics. These are too weak to work & may skew vet lab results, delaying proper treatment.

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Poopology
(for more information, please check out Poopology 101 and Poopology 201:

Clean wax paper or other smooth surfaces can be used to collect droppings to evaluate or take to the vet.

Bird poop has three parts. All three should be examined on a regular basis. A sick bird may show a change in the volume, color, consistency, or frequency of droppings.

As birds are prey animals who hide their illnesses, droppings are one of the best and first ways to evaluate illness.

It is for these reasons that you should not use substrate on your cage dropping pan. For more info

Here are notes about the three parts:

1. Feces: solid waste which should be coiled neatly on itself. The normal appearance is usually soft and brown when on a formulated diet (pellets) but may be abnormally dry and black or green with a seed diet. Color may also be affected by colorful foods, such as carrots or beets (orange/red/pink tint) or greens (greenish tint). If the feces are not the right color, and the bird has not consumed dyed toys, items or high pigment foods, a vet should be seen immediately. Neon green feces are a sign of illness, but other greens are not.

2. Urates: creamy white semi-solids which surround part of the coil, which are waste from the kidneys. If the urates are not white, and the bird has not consumed dyed toys/safe items or high pigment foods, a vet should be seen immediately.

3. Urine: which is supposed to be clear. The normally clear urine may be increased in amount when excess consumption of fruit or vegetables. Again, any discoloring in urine, when the bird has not consumed dyed toys/safe items or high pigment foods, means a vet should be seen immediately.

Note: Many birds have a larger poop than normal first thing in the morning, if they are laying eggs, or are babies on formula or crop milk.

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Proper Avian Nutrition Plan

According to several avian vets that we have consulted, a varied healthy diet is key for all companion birds.

Below are recommendations, summarized from 4 board certified avian vets as of 11/04. We intend to update this page as any new information becomes available. As avian medicine and nutrition is a new science, there may be changes to this information. Additionally, your bird may have special nutritional needs. Please ask your avian vet what is appropriate for your bird.

There are 3 types of birds outlined here: hookbills (parrots of all sizes- from budgies to macaws), hardbills (small birds like canaries and finches), and lories and lorikeets.

Bird Type	Main Diet (Have available to bird at all times- in cage, on playstand, etc)	Secondary Diet (Serve multiple times a day for two hours maximum to avoid bacteria growth)	Comments
Hookbills (Budgies, Lovebirds, Cockatiels, Parrotlets, Parakeets of All Types, Parrots of All Types)	Pellets (Formulated Diets): 60-75% of total diet Vets recommend looking for a brand that meets this criteria: (organic, fortified with calcium, vitamins and minerals, no artificial colors, and no toxic preservatives (such as ethoxyquin, BHA, BHT) Water (unless prescribed by your vet, do not add supplements or medicines to water)	Vets prefer organic and free-range foods whenever possible. Fresh Foods in this order of importance: 1. Fresh dark leafy greens (kale, chard, collards, dandelions) 2. Vitamin A rich veggies (yams, carrots, winter squashes, pumpkin 3. Other Veggies and Greens (broccoli, bell peppers, parsley, zucchini, spinach, etc) 4. Proteins (hard boiled eggs (with shell), nuts, plain yogurt, chicken, fish)* 5. Fruits & Cereals (all fruit except avocado, whole wheat pasta, brown rice, other grains, unsweetened cereals) 6. Seed & Treats * It is especially important to serve free-range organic animal products to avoid bioacculation of hormones, anti-biotics, and pesticides.	Notes on Seed: Contrary to popular belief, most parrots do not eat seed as a main component of their diet in the wild. Seed is high in phosphorus, and can amplify calcium deficiencies in birds. Seed does not provide enough vitamins and minerals, even the "coated" variety. African Greys & Laying Hens: These birds need more calcium than other parrots. Please feed pellets with extra calcium (such as Harrison's High Potency) and/or extra calcium in other ways. Macaws: Macaws need more nuts & palm than other parrots.
Hardbills (Canaries, Finches)	Seed Mix: 60-70% of total diet Vets recommend looking for a brand that meets this criteria: organic, no sunflower seeds Water (unless prescribed by your vet, do not add supplements or medicines to water)	Vets prefer organic and free-range foods whenever possible. Fresh Foods in this order of importance: 1. fresh dark leafy greens (kale, chard, collards, dandelions) 2. Vitamin A rich veggies (yams, carrots, winter squashes, pumpkin 3. Other Veggies and Greens (broccoli, bell peppers, parsley, zucchini, spinach, etc) 4. Proteins (hard boiled eggs (with shell)*, nuts) 5. Fruits & Cereals (all fruit except avocado, whole wheat pasta, brown rice, other grains, unsweetened cereals) 6. Treats
Lories and Lorikeets	Nectar: 70% of total diet (there are commercial mixes available where all you have to do is add water.) Water (unless prescribed by your vet, do not add supplements or medicines to water)	Vets prefer organic and free-range foods whenever possible. 1. Fruit (all but avocado) 2. Vegetables 3. Pellets (specific lory pellets)	Due to the mainly liquid diet of this bird, please consult your vet about proper droppings, care, and diet.

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What Makes a "Good" Cage For My Bird?

A cage is the most important purchase you will make for your bird. It is their "room", their sanctuary. Birds need their private corner of the world, a territory all their own. Do not overlook or make hasty decisions about a cage.

Cage Considerations for ALL Birds:

Metal: Avoid cages that cannot definitively state that they are lead & zinc free- galvanized wire in particular. If the seller does not know if the cage is heavy metal free, ask if you can test the cage before purchase (costs about $20). Here is an excellent article called Testing for Zinc in Parrot Toys, Play Gyms and Cages

Here is how to test the cage:
* Please use a STAINLESS STEEL blade to take sample from the cage
* Be sure to include UNDERCOATING ÐSample should be dime sized (about 20mm)
* Ship regular mail in a plastic bag (baggie) or plastic wrap to the address below:

Dr. Peter Jowett
LA VET MED DIAGNOSTIC LAB
1909 SKIP BERTMAN DR., ROOM #1519
BATON ROUGE, LA 70803
Phone 225-578-9777

Please include a check for $20 payable to: LAVMDL; also include your name, address, phone or fax.
Turnaround time is 1 day and results will be faxed or mailed to you directly.

A cheap cage is not cheap- heavy metal toxicity can rack up costly vet bills & heartache. Invest in a cage wisely.
There are many different manufacturing methods to make today's bird cages. It is important to furnish your bird with a home that is of quality workmanship and not pose a serious hazard to your bird's health. Many of today's modern cages are wrought iron with a powder coated finish. The wrought iron is "roughed up" by either an acid wash or sandblasting and then a powder type paint is applied, the cage is then electrostatically charged which makes the powder paint flow evenly over the surface of the iron and adhere to it, thus giving it a very long-lasting, durable finish. There are many "flight cages" that are sold, in addition to merely using "chicken wire" to make a homemade cage that can be EXTREMELY DANGEROUS to birds. These materials can cause zinc poisoning if a bird is at all inclined to chew on the cage material.
Brass is another material made for some cages. Brass is made with zinc and can lead to zinc toxicity. There are some cages that "look" like brass but aren't. Make sure you know what materials your cages are made of.

Construction: Problems for birds are created by the new drilled tubular construction found on many of today's most popular cages. While this process eliminates individual welds that might break, the cage very often is left with "gaps" where the cage bars go through the drilled holes in the frame. Sometimes manufacturers try and cover these gaps up with welds, but some do not, and since the welding process is done by robotics very often these gaps remain. This not only leads to bacteria forming inside because of dirt and food collection, but also leads to rusting of the cage, which is EXTREMELY TOXIC if birds were to eat the rust. Below is a picture of a one-month old "top-selling" brand of bird cage (click to enlarge). However, if this method is done properly and the gaps can be sealed, this type of construction can actually be safer than cages that have gobs of welding material that especially larger birds can chip off. There have been some manufacturers that have looked into this process recently and have improved their cages very well in this regard. They have listened to specific safety issues like these and have responded!

Size: General rule- buy the largest cage that you can afford and fit into your space. If you do not have space for the appropriate sized cage for a macaw, you should not get that bird (get something smaller). If you cannot afford a good cage, you should wait to acquire a bird until you do. Birds are NOT inexpensive to keep. For bird minimum sizes & bar spacing guidelines, see chart below.

Shape: A good cage is square or rectangular, NOT round. Round cages make a poor bird paranoid- having no corners to hide out in.

Grate: A good cage MUST have bottom grate, preferably far from the bottom pan (where you place paper liners to catch droppings). Do not allow your bird to walk in it's feces and food remnants by purchasing a cage without a grate (or placing paper on top of the grate itself).

Horizontal vs. Vertical Bars: Get a cage with horizontal bars as well as vertical ones- these assist in climbing.

Playtop vs. Dome Top: Go for the dome top. Most play tops are too high for a play stand, and can lead to territorial disputes and aggression. A better solution is to get a separate play gym of the appropriate height, and get a cage with the extra space in a dome top.

Doors: "Guillotine" style doors (doors that open by sliding up and down), either as entrance doors or as feeder doors, are popular on several makes of cages and birds can lift them up and get their heads stuck and potentially injured. These are bad news. Avoid them.

Cage sizes for particular birds:

Probably the number one issue on cage safety is that of bar spacing. You must make sure that the bar spacing on your bird's cage is narrow enough to prevent the bird from getting his/her head or wings through or wedged between the bars. When shopping for cages compare apples to apples, as it were, as some cage manufacturers will state bar spacing from center of bar to center of bar, while others will state bar spacing as the actual space between bars.
Another important thought on bar spacing is that in an effort to increase the "bird visible space" for a cage, in other words to make it easier to see inside the cage, some cage manufacturers will use smaller diameter bars in order to increase this "visible space" while also decreasing the amount of material needed to manufacture the cage. This becomes more of an issue when you have bar spacing that is barely narrow enough for your bird, yet the bird is strong enough to bend the bars apart because of narrow bars, thus creating a wider space.

Do not overcrowd your bird(s), either with too many birds per cage, or too much "furniture" and toys. See chart below for minimum sizes.

Type/Size of Bird	Bar Spacing (Actual Space Between the Bars)	Dimensions of Inside of Cage
Budgies, Parrotlets, Lovebirds	1/2 " wide	For all birds, the rule is biggest that you can afford with the proper bar spacing is best. For one or two birds this size in one cage: 18 x 18 minimum. Increase dimensions in width and length (height is nice but less important) for each additional bird. A minimum is two open wingspans wide per bird.
Cockatiels, Small and Medium Conures, Caiques, Senegals, Hahn's Macaws	5/8" wide	For all birds, the rule is biggest that you can afford with the proper bar spacing is best. For one bird: 20 x 20 minimum. Increase dimensions in width and length (height is nice but less important) for each additional bird. A minimum is two open wingspans wide per bird.
African Greys, Large Conures, Amazons, Small Cockatoos	3/4" wide	For all birds, the rule is biggest that you can afford with the proper bar spacing is best. For one bird: 24 x 24 minimum. Increase dimensions in width and length (height is nice but less important) for each additional bird. A minimum is two open wingspans wide per bird.
Larger Cockatoos, Macaws	1 " wide	For all birds, the rule is biggest that you can afford with the proper bar spacing is best. For one bird: 36 x 36 minimum. Increase dimensions in width and length (height is nice but less important) for each additional bird. A minimum is two open wingspans wide per bird.

Good Article on "Investigating a Perfect Cage"

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Once you have selected a cage, you need to also consider:

Cage Placement: A bird's main area should be where "the action is" in your home. Birds are social flock animals that want to spend time with you. A living or family room is great. But a bird's bedtime is when it gets dark- keeping a bird up past its bedtime makes it cranky and unhealthy. A remedy for this is a "sleeping cage", in a quiet room or keeping the cage in a quiet room, but having a playgym in the main room. Avoid the kitchen- it has too many sources of danger (heat, open sources of water, smoke). Some birds like being near a window, others get nervous there. In the winter, a window may be too chilly a place for a cage. Avoid an area where people come and go quickly but don't linger (like a hallway). More info

Cage Lining (for Dropping Pan): The best liner for a cage is paper- either newspaper, plain paper, or paper towels. Do NOT use substrate of any kind (litter, bedding, shredded stuff, corn cob). Why?

1. It is a breeding ground for bacteria. People use substrate so that they can sift through & remove poop, leaving the rest. There is no possible way to remove all waste using these products, and the substrate then becomes home to critters that make your birds ill. Birds live high in the trees, away from their droppings and mess. As a result, they have not acquired as hearty of an immune system as other animals. You need a liner that allows you to remove everything (paper).

2. You need to be able to monitor your bird's poop to assure its health. Poop is often the first indicator of an illness. If it is covered in substrate, you cannot see if the droppings look healthy.

3. Birds that get "nesty" or "broody" may see the loose material at the bottom of their cage as nesting material & start laying, breeding, or nipping from hormonal madness. Best to avoid that!

Cage Furnishings: You need to think about perches, toys, food and water provisions, and other accoutrements (such as ladders, platforms etc). You will be rearranging your bird's cage every so often as a rule (with an exception made for blind and very fearful birds), and you will get to know its preferences. These are general guidelines.

Item	Recommendations	Comments
Perches	Natural Branches from Safe Trees (popular choices are Manzanita, Cholla Cactus, Ribbonwood, Eucalyptus, and Grapevine) Rope (Sisal or Cotton- be sure to cut frayed end to ensure nails don't get caught) Sand or Cement Compounds (aka "Grooming or Pedicure" perches) Dowels & Wood (one or two, of varying widths is great, esp for chewing!) Platforms (wire, cardboard, or wood for flat feet) Swings, Boings (birds are used to trees that bob and sway, not stationary perches!) Ladders (climbing is an important exercise for caged birds)	Many kinds of perches and perching surfaces are recommended to exercise the whole foot. In the past, many birds lived their whole lives on round dowel perches that came with the cage their people bought. has led to arthritis. A lifetime of this has led to avian arthritis. Heavy Grooming Perches should be placed low in the cage, in case they come loose & fall. Acrylic Perches can be good, if they are textured enough for the bird to perch. Alternatively, you can wrap any slippery surface (like acrylic or manzanita) with Vet Wrap or cotton, hemp, sisal, or jute twine for better gripping.
Toys Please see this to determine what makes a safe toy	Foraging: These are toys that contain treats inside, that the bird needs to work to attain. Destructable: Things that are meant for a bird to destroy. Popular materials are wood, palm, leather, dried corn on the cob, nuts in the shell, pinecones, paper, and cardboard. Puzzle: A toy with moving parts that a bird must manipulate. Many of these have marbles or beads encased that a bird can only get to using their tongues, for example. Noisemakers: Birds are noisy, and love to make even more noise with their toys! Bells and jukeboxes are examples. Acrobatic: A climbing or hanging toy. If your bird is particularly acrobatic, s/he may turn all toys into an acrobatic toy! Plastic chains are a good example. How they are presented: Foot: a toy that is not mounted, and is picked up by the bird to investigate. "Bird Lollipops", screw-and-nut toys, rawhide or wood sticks, and jingling toys are popular in this category. Hanging: these hang from a cage roof or a playgym. Sidemount: these mount onto cage walls.	Birds need at least 3 toys in their cage at all times, and they need to be rotated every couple weeks to keep their interest. Be sure to have toys from multiple catagories at any given time. Some birds have preferences for certain toys over others. Be sure to pay attention to their likes & dislikes.
Food and Water Supplies	Stainless Steel Bowls (best overall unless bird becomes infatuated with its reflection) Plastic "Quick Lock" Bowls (fits almost any cage) Ceramic Bowls (monitor for chipping and discard if necessary)	Many birds make huge messes by tipping over food and water crocks. You may need to get additional "stay put" mechanisms or a new cage with built in "stay put" mechanisms if this is a problem for you. Water bottles are convenient, but not all birds will use them. Additionally, the ball at the tip may become stuck, not allowing your bird access to water. You MUST change the water and disinfect the bottle at least once a day. Not all birds will eat from hooded crocks- cocktiels will not. Know your bird.

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What makes a GOOD toy?

Toys, toys and even more toys is the key to a happy birdie! Toys are more than an extracurricular activity for birds. They are crucial. Birds in the wild fly around, forage for food, preen, spend time with other birds, scout for new areas to nest, feed, and have fun, bathe, and more.

Toys should occupy a companion bird's body and mind- exercising both. Parrot intelligence is estimated to be equivalent to a 2-6 year old human child (depending on species). You wouldn't dream of depriving a human child of toys & companionship, would you? Birds are inquisitive and intelligent, and deserve to have plenty of fun toys available for them to help stimulate their minds. Birds love to have fun! If you do your research when making toys for them, you will be rewarded with a happier and busier bird. Making bird toys is a lot of fun. If you remember the rule of "safety first!", you'll be good to go. Have fun, be safe, create...play!

There should be at least 3 toys in a cage (more for larger cages) at any given time, rotated frequently (every 2 weeks or so), placed around the cage in different areas, and be of different types. Didn't know there were different types of bird toys? Don't despair- we have examples below.

Toys need to be safe. Metals should be stainless steel or aluminum. Ropes and fabrics should be checked frequently for fraying. Dyes need to be bird-safe & non-toxic. Plastic should be inspected regularly. Leather should be vegetable tanned. There is no such thing as a 100% safe toy. Know your bird and its tendencies and supervise any new toy before leaving your bird alone with it.

Get great toys by checking out the suppliers listed here.

Birds are naturally scared of new object, including toys. It is a survival instict. New toys whould be introduced gradually- start by showing the toy to your bird and plying with it yourself. Have visible fun in front of the bird. Next, place the toy in view of the bird (but nowhere near the bird) for a few days. Move it closer to the place you would like to put it gradually. If you plan on hanging the toy in the bird's cage, the last step before placing it IN the cage is fastening the toy to the outside of the cage for a few days. If your bird is not cringing from it and staying on the farthest side of the cage away from the new toy, it's time!

A novel way to shorten this process for especially fearful birds is to "wrap" the toy with a paper towel "bow" the same way each time. Get you bird used to playing with paper towel bows first, then wrap each new toy with a bow. Since the toy will have a familiar look, the bird is less likely to be fearful.

Making your own Toys:

Make your own toys by checking out the DIY sections of the suppliers listed here.

Whenever you are making toys for your bird, the first thing to remember is: "Safety first!" No matter how 'neat' or 'fun' a certain toy or toy part may look, if it is not safe, it is not worth the risk to your bird's health and well-being. Toys for birds are different than toys for other pets. Never let your bird share toys with other pets you may have. (Dog and cat saliva is toxic to birds.)

When making a toy, do your research first. Is any part of the toy made out of a potentially toxic material? Is there any part of the toy that your bird could injure himself on? Is this toy both safe and practical? Let's go over a few pointers about some toy parts:

Bamboo: Buy plain, untreated bamboo sticks. Skewers from the supermarket are great, as they are human food grade. A good place to get other kinds of bamboo is an online bird toy part store.

Baskets & Basket Weave: Buy plain, untreated baskets from craft stores- no laquer or paint. Large baskets can be playgyms, small ones make great shreddy toys. Untreated palm or basket weave can be used to make great foraging toys- place food & treats inside!

Bells: Cow or liberty bells are most commonly used in bird toys. The jingle bells with the little balls in the center are a no-no! Never use jingle bells. Many birds have gotten their toes stuck inside the metal centers and been seriously injured. When buying bells, you need to make sure they are not zinc-plated or galvanized.

Cardboard: Use uncolored or treated "kraft" board. It can be cut into small pieces for foot toys, laced in between cage bars, or suspended in a shreddy toy.

Coconut Shells: You can buy one ready to use, or buy a coconut, scrape out the flesh, and bake the shell.

Corn Husks (Tamale Wrappers): Get these at a supermarket! Wrap toys and treats inside and tie with twine to make a foraging toy!

Fabric: 100% natural fabric is OK. Be sure to trim any frayed ends, and keep it trimmed after wear and tear.

Fabric Flowers: 100% silk or cotton flowers. Please check and make sure there are no plastic parts on the flowers that your bird could get hold of.

Leather: When using leather for bird toys, do not buy any unnatural/treated/processed/coated leather. You should be able to find plain, vegetable-tanned leather in many craft stores: that is safe to use. It should say right on the package, 'vegetable-tanned'.

Loofah Sponge: All natural, untreated loofah is digestable vegetable matter (loofah is actually a melon). Thin slices of loofah make great preening/shreddy toys.

Pinecones: Only use ones from pesticide-free trees, with the sap cleaned off. Bake any tree parts you wildharvest (for perches, chewing, etc) in the oven at 200 degrees for 30 minutes for sterilization purposes.

Plastic Beads: You can find plastic beads, also called 'pony beads', in the store. As with all toy-making parts, make sure the beads are large enough so that your bird cannot choke on them, and not brittle so they won't crack or break. Marbella beads are also good to use.

Plastic Chain: This stuff is great for acrobatic birds- you can hang it or suspend it tautly between two points for a fun "bridge".

Popsicle Sticks: Buy plain, not colored (unless bought from a reputable source specifically for birds). To add color to the sticks yourself at home, soak them in a mixture of food coloring and water.

Quick Links: Quick links can be purchased from many online bird-toy stores. Never buy zinc-plated or galvanized quick-links. Many quick-links you find in stores like hardware stores are made from zinc, and therefore very harmful. Stainless steel quick-links are best to use. Stainless steel quick-links may be a bit more expensive, but they won't rust, and should last a very long time.

Raffia: Use the nautural undyed stuff. Great for preening toys and to shred up. use to tie things to the cage bars!

Rawhide: Use 100% natural rawhide. Avoid the colored rawhide. If rawhide gets wet and/or mooshy, it should be thrown away.

Rope/Twine: You can never have too much! Make toys, lash toys, create preening tassels. Make sure to buy only 100% all-natural rope. Examples of this are paulie rope, cotton, jute, sisal, and hemp. Keep the ends of the rope trimmed, you wouldn't want your bird getting caught in a frayed end. Make sure there are no dangerous string or loops that the bird could get caught on.

Toilet Paper Rolls: These are the greatest! Buy a brand that doesn't use glue on the tube (Trader Joe's brand is one). Cut half into a fine fringe for a preening toy, or slice into rings & uspend on a perch.

Twisted Paper: You can find this in a craft store. Make sure it is all-natural, without any added dyes, etc. It should say on the label whether it is natural, or dyed.

Wood: Great and absolutely necessary! Untreated and unfinished wood only. Pine beads (the most common kind available in craft stores) are fine.

Chart of Toys (for Inspiration!)

Type of Toy	Explanation	Examples/Different Presentations
Foraging	These are toys that contain treats or other toys inside, that the bird needs to work to attain. In the wild, all birds forage for food. Studies show that they actually prefer to work for their meal- itr makes them happier!	Foot Toy: a "Kong" filled with treats. Hanging Toy: a skewer suspended with veggies or fruits from the cage top. Sidemount: a brown paper lunch bag, filled with treats & shreddy items, tied with natural cord to side of cage.
Puzzle/Manipulative	A toy with moving parts that a bird must manipulate. Many of these have marbles or beads encased that a bird can only get to using their tongues, for example. These toys help give the bird a sense of control of their own environment (leading to a more well-adjusted bird) & teach important concepts like cause and effect.	Foot Toy: stainless steel wingnuts on a bolt. Hanging Toy: an acrylic "popsicle stick dispenser" Sidemount: Bell Plastics acrylic "activity center".
Creative	Birds are noisy, creative, & exuberant creatures. Noisemakers fall into this category, like bells and jukeboxes. Weaving toys (like ones for Quakers), or birdie paint sets fall into this category.	Foot Toy: a loop of chain with bells on it. Hanging Toy: Paulie rope tassle with long strands for weaving in and out of cage bars. Sidemount: paper and "paint" for a bird to express itself.
Destructable	Things that are meant for a bird to destroy. Popular materials are wood, palm, leather, dried corn on the cob, nuts in the shell, pinecones, paper, and cardboard.	Foot Toy: "birdie bagels". Hanging Toy: "birdie kabobs" Sidemount: "shredders"
Acrobatic	A climbing or hanging toy. If your bird is particularly acrobatic, s/he may turn all toys into an acrobatic toy! Plastic chains are a good example.	Foot Toy: a small wooden rocking horse Hanging Toy: a boing or swing. Sidemount: a network of ladders and platforms, or a windmill toy.
Preening	A toy that the bird can run through it's beak. Many of these toys are calming to a stressed out bird and act as a pacifier.	Foot Toy: a bead on a frayed knotted rope Hanging Toy: a tassel Sidemount: a sterilized feather clipped to the side of the cage.

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How to Find a Good Avian Vet

The term "avian vet" can be misleading. Any vet can use that term, regardless of their education, certification, or experience. All that is required is a willingness to treat birds! Therefore, it is best to find a "Board Certified Avian Vet"- one who has worked on birds a minimum of 6 years and has taken a rigorous exam (and passed).

How to find a Board Certified Avian Vet vet near you: ABVP.com

Please read this excellent article called "Planning for Veterinary Emergencies".  Buy a Gram Scale! Assemble a First Aid Kit! Keep it stocked!

While we in the Bay Area are lucky to have several wonderful Board Certified Avian (BCA) Vets nearby, if you found this page and do not live here, the nearest avian vet may be hours away from you. This is due to the fact that there are only a couple hundred avian vets in the whole WORLD. If this is the case, you should do a bit of research and find a second if not third vet within a proper travel distance. Find the nearest BCA vet in case you birds life is in danger and you need someone that KNOWS what to do about it and fast. Then, find the nearest non-certified avian vet that specializes in birds. If that vet is quite a distance away local your nearest vet that accepts birds. Some vets only take dogs/cats, cows, horse, ect ect... You need contact them and speak with them to find out.
Given that avian medicine and nutrition are a new science that is advancing all the time, you may find that there is no Board Certified Avian Vet near you. In that case, ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS of any prospective vet. Many of these avian vets are wonderful- and are indeed studying toward the Avian Medicine Exam. (It does take 6 years of practice before they can take this test, remember.) The first question on your list should be, "How many birds do you see in your practice DAILY?" The answer that is best for your bird will be at least "four". Any less and they most likely do not have enough experience. Then ask what sorts of birds they have treated, and what sorts of conditions. Here are links to find vets treating birds:

toolady.com
babybirds.com
AAV.org
parrotmag.com

Also research emergency care. What happens if your bird gets stepped on at 9 PM at night? If it can't stand or is bleeding out its mouth. A broken wing or leg. An accident in the kitchen. What do you do? Who do you call? You should already know. Not knowing is irresponsible neglect of any pet. Researching vets does not cost you a penny but can save you a bundle of money and grief in the future.

Other Emergency Medical Contacts:
ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center (USA) 24-hour emergency phone number: 1-888-426-4435
(Vets are available to help 24-hours a day, but you are charged a fee for the call)

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Medicating birds

NEVER buy over-the-counter medicines to treat your bird. Please establish a relationship with a Board Certified Avian Vet (BCAV) and take your bird to them when s/he is sick. Read more about that here.

Once you have real medicine that has been prescribed by your vet and a sick birdie to orally administer them to, the task can seem overwhelming. Read this great article on medicating birds for good technique.

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Over-the-Counter Medicines

Using Over-the-Counter Medicines that you buy at a pet shop, by mail order, or online is a BAD IDEA. Why?

1. While saving money is important, saving your bird is even more so. Over the counter medications DO NOT WORK. They are too weak to do the job you want them to do.

2. You also may be using an improper medication, as you are not a vet and have done no tests to determine what the problem is with your bird. You will wind up taking your bird to the vet after using these meds, I guarantee you.

3. Further, using these "medicines" will skew the tests that the vet will inevitably have to do, thereby delaying proper treatment even further.

Do your bird a favor- when it seems sick, take it to a Board Certified Avian Vet. Get it tested and get the real stuff.

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Full Spectrum Lighting vs. Sunlight:

Birds need sunlight to help them process vitamins and keep them happy and healthy. But taking companion birds outside isn't always possible or safe. Taking birds outside requires a carrier, cage, harness and SUPERVISION. While natural sunlight & air are preferable, many people don't have skylights or cannot spend time with their birds outside every day. So opting for consistency is a good alternative- through full spectrum lighting and air filtration. Read more about air filtration here.

Providing Full Spectrum Lighting for your birds (and yourself!) doesn't have to be expensive. If you want the kind of fixtures that just plug into the wall and hang (so you don't have to do any wiring) they can be bought at any home supply warehouse store for a mere $7-$15. These are "fluorescent light fixtures" that you can plug full spectrum bulbs into. The long fluorescent tube lights come in 2 sizes (T8 & T12). A best long-term investment would be to get the fixtures that take both T8 & T12 sizes and that have electronic ballasts- said to prevent flickering of the light.
Full spectrum lights are available in both sizes as well, these bulbs cost about $6. The "CRI 92" is the minimum strength that is truly beneficial. For $25 you can get a fixture to fit a T12. OR at Wal-mart (Gotta love em! ) you can get a fixture that fits EITHER bulb for $14. This is what we bought. However I don't have anything working yet because the bulbs are hard to find. Of all the hardware stores in two cities near me, Home Depot is the only place with bulbs with a CRI of 92, and no where I can find has a CRI any higher. And Home Depots bulb is Phillips that in the T8 has a CRI of 90 but the same bulb in a T12 has a CRI of 92, and ofcourse, they only had 1 left! So now I'm on the hunt for bulbs, I hope this helps some of you, I'll keep you posted!

Good bulbs are available here. The bulbs at this link are the Phillips TL950 with a CRI of 98. (This is the only place after searching high and low that would sell them individually.) It's hard to find them at all online and most places you have to order a case.

Then the next investment would be getting a timers (available in a drug, hardware, or superstore) for about $6 each. You simply plug the light into the timer and you can set it to come on and go off anytime you want. Just be sure to give your birds 10-12 hours of total darkness (more if they are laying).

Article About Full Spectrum Lighting

Great Link #1 About Birds and Full Spectrum Lighting

Great Link #2 About Birds and Full Spectrum Lighting

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Air Filtration

This becomes necessary pretty quickly if you have certain birds, certain combinations of birds, or birds and other animals. Certain birds, Macaws in particular, are very sensitive to their air quality. Other birds (like Cockatiels, Cockatoos, and African Greys) have a powdery down that causes white flakey dander in the air. This can trigger someone with allergies, athsma, or a sensitive bird in your home.

It's best to have air purifiers throughout your home, but especially in the "bird room".
Articles on air filters & ozone:
Birds n Ways
Birds n Ways #2

This is an article on air purification for "indoor breeding facilities", but much can be learned from it.

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Aspergillosis

If you have a companion parrot, particularly a Macaw, you should learn lots about aspergillosis. Aspergillis fumigatus is ubiquitous in the human environment. It probably lives in and behind your refigerator, in your attic or crawl space, on some wall surfaces, and anywhere that is dark and (even slightly) damp. It occurs widely in hospitals -- where surfaces are all washed frequently. It is frequently found in the air conditioning system. It is in your flower bed, lawn and garden. People also get aspergillosis and the same areas of susceptibility apply: immunocompromised folk are most likely to get it and they will get it from the same environmental sources as your bird.

More information on aspergillosis (Asper)
Article #1
Article #2
Article #3
Article #4
Article #5
Article #6
Article #7

The above are some sites that will get you started on learning about this disease.

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All About Eggs and Laying

Egg laying is a possible health problem in all hen birds (even when no male is present), particularly ones with a mostly seed diet (and other low-calcium diets). It can begin anytime from 5 months to over 10 years of age, but is most common in smaller birds (lovebirds, budgies, cockatiels, finches, and canaries).

Egglaying is a natrual seasonal process in wild birds, but can become obsessive in some caged birds that drains the bird of vital nutrients, ruins her pet quality, and pre-disposes her to life-threatening health problems such as egg binding and yolk peritonitis. Therefore, laying should be discouraged as soon as possible (for health reasons) and seen by a Board Certified Avian Vet as soon as possible.

We at Squawk and Howl believe that breeding is not a responsibility to be taken lightly, and is best left to breeders with the experience, resources, and time to care for chicks. Any potential breeder must be ready to hand-feed & incubate the chicks in case that parents reject them. Feeding round-the-clock every couple hours is a huge commitment and should only be done by experienced handlers- as chicks can easily aspirate with improper feeding and die.

Our philosophy is not to pair hens that are meant to be kept as human companions. Therefore, when expanding your flock, consider adding different species and do not pair different-sex pairs together in the same cage.

Hens can lay eggs with or without a male bird present. All that needs to exist are a few factors: plentiful food, extended periods of sunlight/light (which mimics the proper breeding season), and safety of the nest (OK location in cage for laying & comfort in cage). By changing one or all of these factors, you may nip laying tendencies in the bud.

Factors that encourage laying: High fat seed diet Access to nest box or nesting material Access to dark enclosed spaces Presence or sound of a male bird Allowing free flight Ptting a bird's back or lower abdomen Removing an egg immediately Solo hens (infertile eggs): Keep eggs in the place the bird left them until she loses interest. Removing them encourages more laying.

Paired hens or hens that have a male present: Once there more than one egg, remove eggs (that are less than 72 hours old) one at time & place them in the freezer for a few hours. Mark each frozen egg with a marker and replace in cage. Do this to all eggs. Leave until birds lose interest.

If your bird starts laying, do the following:
1. Ensure bird gets 12 hours of total dark, total silence for sleeping. Increase this amount for up to 15 hours of sleep for birds that continue laying.
2. Give enough food, but not an abundance of food. Feed as much as the bird can eat in a two hour period, then remove for an hour. Repeat.
3. Re-arrange the cage- change location of perches, toys, and food.
4. Convert to a pellet-based diet.
5. Ensure there is a grate at the bottom of the cage to deny access to "nesting materials".
6. Clip wing feathers.
7. Limit petting to head, neck & upper body.

If all else fails, your vet may recommend hormonal injections to stop the madness.

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Recommended Books on Parrot Behavior

While we could write volumes here on the website on parrot behavior, we feel it's best to purchase books from a reputable parrot behaviorists and keep them around as reference books (you WILL be referring back to them again and again- parrots are so fascinating!).

We also recommend subscribing to the Companion Parrot Quarterly, as Avian Nutrition, Behavior, and Medicine are new sciences. We are constantly learning new things to improve the lifespan and quality of life of our feathered friends. Best to keep on top of these advances!

Here are books that Squawk and Howl Recommends for ALL parrot "owners":
1. Companion Parrot Handbook, by Sally Blanchard
2. Guide to a Well-Behaved Parrot, by Mattie Sue Athan
3. The Beak Book, by Sally Blanchard
4. The Second Hand Parrot, by Mattie Sue Athan (this is a good behavior book even for people who purchase babies)

We feel these four books are the best resources out there.
Since so many parrots lose their homes due to human misunderstanding of parrot behavior, we felt a required reading list on behavior was critical.
For a good book on general care and husbandry, we recommend Birds for Dummies by Dr. Brian Speer.

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Reputable Places to Get Bird Stuff

Sadly, many pet stores who sell birds are sorely lacking in proper care for our feathered friends. Many, like Petco and PetSmart have been fined for animal cruelty and unhealthy husbandry. Many birds have lost their lives due to chain pet stores who treat birds like any other "unit for sale", and not intelligent, sentient beings.

Further, many "bird stores" improperly care for their charges. In Alameda County, there is a yucky "bird store" that has days worth of cemented droppings on cage bottoms, illnesses running rampant, and the owner refuses to post anything about rescue efforts. Yuck! Take a look around before buying your birds or supplies from any store. Don't like what you see? Take your business to a place that respects the birds!

It is very important to evaluate where we buy/adopt our companions and their supplies. Vote with your dollars- support great stores and avoid others. Check out this great article by Sally Blanchard on Standards for a Quality Birdshop.

Here is a list of brick and mortar and online retailers by category that Squawk and Howl likes:

Bay Area Brick and Mortar Stores/Services

Squawk and Howl recommends feeding organic foods whenever possible. In the Bay Area, that is not too hard to do!

Organic Food Places (and bird/pet related things we have found)
Trader Joe's- whole wheat pastas, cereals, produce, nuts, dehydrated fruits and vegetables, apple cider vinegar, aloe vera juice, rawhide chews, spirulina, free range eggs & chicken.
Rainbow Grocery (SF)- virtually anything organic that is made/grown, herbal pet medicines/probiotics, full spectrum lighting, raw pet foods, wellness brand dog/cat food, eco cat litter.
Organic Express- delivers organic produce & groceries to your house!

Online Suppliers

Parrot Island

Greyfeather Toy Creations

8 Beaks

Birdy Booty

Books:
Avian Publications

Bird Rescues:
Mickaboo
Companion Parrot Connection
The Gabriel Foundation
Find a Rescue in your Area!

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Moving? Help When Transporting Pets

Moving is a stressful time for both people and their non-human companions. The key to eliminating as much stress as possible is advance planning. Here are some tips:

1. Pack all pet supplies in one box, and have it be the last box packed & the first one opened. Include in this box food & treats, favorite toys, and play areas.

2. Move cages in one run, while animals are in their carriers. When in the new location, release the bird into its familiar cage, rather than have it explore the new place right away. Your new home is not likely to be "bird-proofed". The bird may be fearful of its new surroundings. drape a towel of a back corner of the cage to create a cozy cave retreat.

3. The actual transport of an animal may be complicated if you are moving a great distance. Here is a great website that can help!

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All About Wing Clipping

At Squawk and Howl, we are situationalist about wing clipping. We feel that bird people need to educate themselves on the pros and cons and decide for themselves whether they have the time, money, and energy to accomodate a fully-flighted bird. If you are unable to completely adjust your living environment and your schedule to accomodate a fully flighted bird, we believe that clipping is the way to go.

As a cultural note, in the UK, it is rare to see a clipped budgie or 'tiel- in North America, it is rare to see an unclipped one! Many behaviorists and experts in the UK make arguments not to clip, while most experts here make arguments to clip. Here are the pros & cons you will hear about the subject:

Pro Wing Clipping Arguments:

Escape: Even the most vigilant owner cannot watch their bird at all times while it is outside of the cage. Especially if children are in the home, doors may be open and closed frequently. Although a clipped bird can fly with a good strong wind, the chances of the bird flying far are greatly reduced. A lost bird has no idea how to find his way back-many species are nomadic, and do not remember where they flew from.

Training: A clipped bird will tame and train much more quickly than an unclipped bird because of its reliance upon a human. Fewer dominance and aggression problems occur when a bird is clipped.

Safety: A clipped bird will not fly into windows, mirrors, stoves, etc. Even the tamest bird, when scared, can suddenly take off and fly into a wall or window and injure itself or break bones- or its neck.

Natural? "But a bird is made to fly." Well, yes. In taking the bird out of his natural environment, however, his needs need to be ascertained in comparison to his domesticated life. After all, how natural is it to keep a bird in a cage or house, hand feed chicks, provide veterinary care, feed formulated diets, and have brightly colored wood/acrylic toys within a "natural" setting?

Myths about Clipped Birds: A clipped bird does not fall to the ground like a bag of bricks- a correct clip allows for the bird to glide to the ground, and have control over it's motions.
Clipping causes no pain to the bird. The feathers are similar to a humans nails of hair- there is no feeling in the feather, and it does not hurt the bird to be clipped.

Con Wing Clipping Arguments:

Safety: Clipped birds that have landed on the floor without notice can be easily stepped on or smooshed behind a door. They also do not general fly into mirrors or windows if allowed to properly learn to fly and navigate the home.

Health: Smaller birds, especially budgies, are prone to fat-related problems, including fatty tumors, liver disease, obesity etc. Flying is great excercise, and the reason that these birds don't get any of the "fat" problems in the wild. Flying also helps keep the birds generally fit.

Ability: If done incorrectly (by an inexperienced individual), clipping can cause damage to the follicule, and/or lead to featherpicking when the feather has been cut at the wrong angle.

Behavior: Birds that are clipped can have phobic, self destructive, and self-esteem issues.

Philosophy: Birds have evolved for millions of years to fly, flying is their birthright.

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Bird Acronyms

B&G (BGM)- Blue and Gold Macaw
BC (BCC)- Blue-crown Conure
BCL - Black-cap Lory
BCMA - Blue-crown Mealy Amazon
BE2 (BEC)- Bare-eye Cockatoo
BFA - Blue Front Amazon
BHC - Black-headed Caique
BHP - Blue-head Pionus
BL - Black Lory
BP2 BPC)- Black Palm Cockatoo
BSL - Blue-streak Lorry
BTM - Blue-throated (Caninde) Macaw
BWP - Bronze-wing Pionus
BWL - Black-wing Lory
C2 - Citron Cockatoo
CAG (RTP) - Congo African Grey
CHL - Chattering Lory
CM - Catalina Macaw
DL - Dusky Lory
DVL - Duyvenbode's Lory
DYH - Double Yellow-head Amazon
E2 - Eleanora Cockatoo
EFP - Edward's Fig Parrot
G2 - Goffins Cockatoo
GC - Green-cheek Conure
GCC - Gold-cap Conure
GCP - Grey-cheek Parakeet
GE - Grand Eclectus
GSC2 - Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoo
GWM - Green-wing Macaw
HH - Hawk-head Parrot
HM - Hahns Macaw
HMC - Half-moon Conure
HYM - Hyacinth Macaw
IL - Iris Lorikeet
IM - Illiger Macaw
Keet (BUD)- Parakeet
LCA - Lilac-crown Amazon
LSC2 - Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoo
MA - Mealy Amazon
MXP - Maximilian Pionus
M2 - Moluccan Cockatoo
MBC - Maroon-belly Conure
MGM - Miligold Macaw
MM - Military Macaw
MM2 - Major Mitchell (Leadbeater) Cockatoo
MRHA (GCA) - Mexican Red Head Amazon Green-cheek Amazon
MSC - Medium Sulphur-crested Cockatoo
OL - Ornate Lory
OWA - Orange Winged Amazon
PC - Painted Conure
RB2 (RBC)- Rose-breasted Cockatoo
RFM - Red-front Macaw
RLA - Red-lored Amazon
RM - Ruby Macaw
RSE - Red-sided Eclectus
RV2 - Red-vented Cockatoo
SBL - Scaley-breasted Lorikeet
SC2 - Sulphur-crested Too
SIE - Soloman Island Eclectus
SM - Scarlet Macaw
T2 - Triton Cockatoo
TAG - Timneh African Grey
Tiel - Cockatiel
Too - Cockatoo
U2 - Umbrella Cockatoo
VE - Vosmaeri's Eclectus
VNL - Violet-necked Lory
WBC - White-bellied Caique
WCP - White-capped Pionus
WFA - White-front Amazon
WF - White-faced Cockatiel
YCM - Yellow-collared Macaw
YNA - Yellow-naped Amazon
YSL - Yellow-streaked Lory

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The Benefits of Aloe Vera

Aloe is an excellent natural healing plant that benefits companion birds as well as people. Here are a couple of great articles:

Land of Vos
Birds n Ways

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The Benefits of Apple Cider Vinegar

We at Squawk and Howl use Apple Cider Vinegar as our daily routine cleaner of choice for bird cages, gyms, perches, and toys. It's naturally acidic and kills many bacteria that can cause infections in birds. And because it's non-toxic, you don't have to wait before letting your bird back into its cage/on its gym! We use an 2:1 solution (water to vingear) and a long handled scrub brush.
In fact, there is evidence that organic apple cider vinegar is beneficial to birds when ingested! We get an organic brand that comes bottled with "the mother" for health reasons. Here are some great articles:

Naturally Healthy Pet
Cage n Bird
Living Foods

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OK- But Which Cleaners Should I Use?

Now that you know that many commercial cleaners can be toxic to your birds (as well as you!), you may be confused what you SHOULD use. Understandable. We recommend all natural soaps, baking soda, apple cider vinegar, borax, and non-chlorine bleaches. Stuff that you get at a health food store or is labelled "organic" & "cruelty free" are great places to start.

We use: organic apple cider vinegar and poop off for daily cleanings.
Oxy Fresh Cleaning Gele for weekly disinfections.
For hardcore virus/bacteria/grime blasting, contact your board certified avian vet for recommendations.

Here is a great article about this

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The Importance of Playgyms

When bringing a new bird home, everyone knows they must have a cage for him/her. But many people do not realize that the bird needs a safe, fun place to be outside of the cage for several hours every day. This does NOT include your shoulder! Birds need to interact with their humans, yes- but they also need to have independent time to be a well-adjusted bird.
There are many styles and shapes of gyms- floor models and tabletop models, ones that look like inverted trees and ones with ladders and swings. What should you look for?

1. Keeping the bird away from its droppings. Just like in the cage, a bird needs to be away from contact with its feces. Where will the poop go on the model you are considering? Is it easily cleanable? Is there a tray to catch poop & food mess?

2. Where toys will be placed. Many gyms LOOK great, but when you get them home, you realize that all the hooks for toys are placed in incovenient areas- usually lower than the bird will be hanging out. If need be, there are supplemental toys hooks that can be bought to embellish any gym.

3. Solid, safe construction. Be sure that the gym won't tip over, that it is made of safe materials, and that it sparks the imagination & fun side of your bird!

An article on keeping your bird happy & healthy with gyms and such.

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Dangerous Products Pet Stores Try To Sell You

You would think that a pet store would only sell products that are safe for your bird, wouldn't you? Sadly, nothing could be further from the truth. As more products come out, we will add to this list.
This list is one of products that are purely dangerous, not just "potentially dangerous". What do we mean? No toy is 100% safe. All toys should be monitored for wear & tear and even a safe toy, perch, or hut can become dangerous. This list is meant for products that are sold that should NEVER be sold.

1. "Bird Protector" by 8 in 1 products (and similar products).
This is a metal disc full of pesticides you are supposed to place on the bird cage to protect the birds from mites & lice. Not only is it unecessary (indoor birds rarely suffer from mites or lice), but can be very harmful to the birds. Pesticides are meant to KILL- and birds are quite susceptible to these poisons. Many an avian vet has seen a bird for poisoning due to this shameful product.

2. Grit
Hookbills (parrot family birds) DO NOT NEED these products and further, they can cause medical problems & death. Unlike other birds who do not hull their seed before they consume it (birds with gizzards) parrots do not ingest seed hulls. These products are not just unecessary- they can cause crop impaction & slow, lingering death if unnoticed & untreated.

3. Oyster Shell
Some people buy oyster shell for the same reasons they buy grit (see above why grit is bad). Oyster shell can pose an additional danger because of polluted oceans. Many oyster shells contain high levels of heavy metals, including lead. This can poison your bird. If you need oyster shell, get human grade, not pet grade.

4. Sandpaper Perch Covers
While "pedicure perches" made of concrete or sandy composite are OK (as long as the bird has other perches in its cage, and it is not the highest perch in the cage), sandpaper covers are not. First, these covers are made for dowel perches. You should have more perches in your cage than merely dowels. Standing on the same surface width & texture day after day has led to many cases of avian arthritis. Second, sandpaper is WAY too harsh a surface to stand on. Think about it- would you want to stand barefoot on broken glass every day all day? It causes foot abrasions and injuries & can lead to infections.

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A Clean Home is a Bird-Healthy Home

If you want to avoid the heartache and wallet emptying that bird illness provides, your best bet is keeping your bird healthy. The best way to keep your bird healthy is to keep its surroundings clean, give it a good diet, frequent exercise, and sunshine/full=spectrum lighting. There are so many places bacteria can fester, it's good to have a cleaning list to refer to:

1. Empty trash every day.
2. Do not leave unopened food around.
3. Do not leave standing water/oil/ etc. in your kitchen.
4. Refrigerate all food for your bird.
5. Make sure all food is fresh, organic and from reputable sources.
6. Use newsprint (not substrate "bedding") as a cage liner to retard bacteria.
7. Buy a vacuum with a HEPA filter and an allergen filter (a double filter vac.)
8. Dry-wet vac to sop up wet spots in carpet- floors etc.
9. Place all wet rags, clothes, and so forth outside until dry.
10. Clean places that can possibly accumulate mold/mildew and such- garages, under sinks, basements etc regularly, and check often to make sure they are dry.
11. Balance the dry air with some humidity/ and balance humid air with dry heat. Folks in humid areas have more work ahead of them. 12. Do not leave birds exposed to outside night air during cold snaps, or rain.
13. Clean refrigerator often- throw out any old food, moldy cheese, etc.
14. Rinse food and water dishes with hot water and vinegar between washings.
15. Cover dry food if possible when bird is not eating. (This is more applicable for the humid areas)
16. Watch plant soil in potted plants, sometimes it breeds mold. Also watch for mushrooms- do not let them grow and do not keep them within reach of the bird. If you must have them for salads, make sure they are kept in air tight container in refrigerator.
17. Watch for eye infections, tail bobbing, and runny nares. If arrested in early stages, infections, even asper can be eliminated. It depends on the immune system of the individual bird.
18. If you feed sprouts, make sure to rinse with diluted vinegar before serving. Refrigerate leftover sprouts as soon as they "bud".
19. Clean your toilet and bathtubs weekly, and flush the toilet with the lid closed.

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Basic Bird Body Language, by Mickaboo

One of the most important aspects in creating and maintaining a successful relationship with an avian companion is the ability to understand your bird's vocalizations and body language. Birds learn to communicate with us through sounds, behavior and actions. Using their body language and vocalizations they can "tell" us when they are happy, content, frightened, sick, hungry, tired, angry, or ready to be held and cuddled.

The ability to communicate is a vital element in any relationship, and it is of utmost importance that bird owners learn to interpret the meanings of their birds sounds and behaviors in order to successfully tame, train, and provide them with the very best of care. While the actions of one particular bird or species do not necessarily mimic the meaning of the same action in all other birds, we have found there to be a general similarity in the actions and meaning of some basic avian behaviors. If your bird exhibits any of the following behaviors, try to ascertain exactly what your feathered friend is trying to tell you, and respond (or refrain from responding) accordingly.

Barking:
Even in a household without dogs, some birds will "bark" in excitement, during a "chatter" session, or in an attempt to display their dominance over their cagemates or other birds in the household.

Beak Grinding:
This is similar to the sound of a child grinding his teeth at night, and is a result of a bird scraping the lower mandible against the upper mandible. It is usually a sign of a bird feeling secure and content. This will often be heard after your bird settles in for the night, right before he drops off to sleep, and sometimes during sleep.

Beak Wiping:
When done in the presence of another bird, it is usually an attempt to tell the other bird that it is intruding on personal territory. When done while alone, it usually indicates one of two things: the bird is trying to dislodge something stuck to his beak, or the beak wiping is a displacement agression activity. Displaced aggression means that the bird cannot perform the activity he would like to and is aggravated, which he displays by wiping his beak on another object. We've observed this particular cause and effect in a jealous Amazon who is over-bonded to his male owner, and never fails to bite the owner's wife when given the opportunity. Whenever the bird is caged and observes acts of affection between the owner and his wife, the bird commences beak wiping and aggressive behavior.

Biting:
With young birds, there is often a "teething stage" encountered where the youngsters will "beak" almost everything it comes in contact with. A bird's beak is filled with encapsulated nerve endings, and is used to experience sensation, texture, taste, resilience of objects, etc. In these instances, the "beaking" cannot be considered as biting but as experimentation. "Beaking" of human fingers, which may lead to biting later, can be gently discouraged by redirecting the bird to an appropriate toy or other approved chewable item. With older birds, biting is obviously the most definitive form of showing displeasure. Biting birds do so for a reason. The bird may be feeling threatened, frightened or startled. Birds will bite during display; to protect their nest; or when the owner is doing something the bird disproves of. Birds may also bite their mate or beloved human in an attempt to protect them. A bird's instinct is to flee when faced with an intruder, and in an attempt to encourage his "mate" to flee, may bite at the owner as a way of encouraging this. Biting can also be caused by displaced aggression; when unable to bite the desired object, your bird will bite the closest thing at hand. When encouraging a bird to step up onto your hand, do not misunderstand an open beak aimed at your hand as an attempt to bite. Birds almost always "test" a perch before stepping onto it to ensure its stability, and will touch his beak to your hand before stepping onto it.

Chattering:
Loud chattering or crowing is usually heard at dusk, when bird(s) are settling down for the night. It is believed to be an attempt to make their presence known to other birds, or possible to re-establish relationships among the flock. Soft chattering is often how a parrot amuses itself, and is normally a sign that the parrot is feeling safe and content. This muted chatter is also heard when a bird is practicing speech; words and phrases can sometimes be heard if you listen closely.

Crouch Stance:
A bird that is crouching with his head down and pointed forward, tail feathers flared, body feathers ruffled or "hackled", and exhibiting pupil dilation is one angry fellow! DO NOT approach a bird who is exhibiting this behavior, as it means, "I am big, mean, and mad; if you come any closer I will bite you!"

Flashing/Dilating Pupils:
Flashing, dilating pupils can be a sign of aggression, excitement, nervousness, or pleasure. Pay close attention to other behaviors that accompany flashing/"pinning" pupils in order to correctly ascertain the reason for this particular behavior. In a bird that is exhibiting additional aggressive behaviors such as tail fanning, this behavior means "Back Off!". If you persist in attempting contact, you may get a nasty bite for your trouble. Your bird may also be exhibiting this behavior in response to another bird, animal, or human in the vicinity that is disliked.

Perching:
On one foot: Shows that a bird feels comfortable in his surroundings and secure in his environment. A secure bird will sleep with one foot tucked up to his abdomen and his head turned around and tucked into his back feathers.

Preening:
Preening is the activity that a bird conducts to keep his feathers in top condition. It consists of running feathers through their beaks from the base to the tip to straighten and clean them. Some birds have oil glands at the base of their tails, and will take some of this oil and run it through their feathers, creating a "sheen" and protectant that repels water instead of absorbing it. Preening is also a social activity; birds will preen one another to remove feather sheaths that they cannot reach by themselves. (this is called "allopreening".) Birds may also attempt to "preen" their humans hair. Preening should not be confused with feather biting or plucking. A feather-biting bird will bite his feathers and snip them off at the base, close to the skin or directly at the feather follicle. A plucking bird will pull and pluck the feathers out completely.

Regurgitating:
When done in the presence or in close proximity to a human, it normally means that the bird has chosen you as it's mate, and wants to feed you! This action is also sometimes performed on a favorite toy or other object. Bonded birds show their affection for each other by feeding each other, and accomplish this by regurgitating food. This activity consists of bobbing the head up and down to bring up food from the crop, and depositing it into the mate's mouth. This is also the manner in which parents feed baby chicks.

Whistling, Singing, Talking:
These activities are usually indulged in when the bird is feeling safe, secure and content in his surroundings. Expected times are during the early morning hours when the sun rises, and at dusk when the sun is going down, but also occur anytime the bird is feeling especially exuberant and happy!

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Baths and Your Bird

Baths are a necessary part of regular care for your bird. Birds need baths at least once a week, preferably daily or every other day. Bathing, like eating, is a flock activity. Birds prefer to do this in groups and doing so contributes to its feeling of well-being.
It is important not to use too cold or too hot of water- tepid or slightly warm water is best.

Most birds LOVE baths, but if you have a reluctant bird, here are some tips:

Try and determine which way your bird prefers to get wet! There are many ways for a bird to bathe:

1. In the Shower. Try installing a shower perch or have the bird perch on your arm and let it sway itself under the torrent of water.
2. Pool Baths. If your bird is afraid of the shower, try a bath in a shallow wide bowl.
3. Misting. If you have a regular misting bottle, be sure to aim above the bird's head and allow the mist to gently fall over the bird (rather than squirting it directly). An even better mister is one that you pump full of air pressure so that when you press the nozzle it emits a fine, even mist.
4. Sopping Wet Greens in a Bowl. Many birds love to writhe around and dampen their feathers from wet greens!

If you still cannot find a solution that makes your bird happy, bathing is still required. Try and determine what issues (other than getting wet!) that your bird may have & try and fix those. Some may feel insecure perching on an arm or shower perch. A way to cure this is bringing a familiar stand into the bathtub. Anticipating a favorite treat is a way to get a bird to tolerate bathing if all else fails! Save that special tidbit for bath time!

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Taking Your Bird Outdoors, by Mickaboo

It's a beautiful day, bright and sunny with the slightest breeze. What could be more fun or healthful for yourindoor parrot than a trip outside? Taking parrots outdoors may seem "natural," since their caged life is so different from the one their wild counterparts enjoy, yet countless tragedies result from this well-intentioned activity. But you can do it safelyÐ and still have plenty of fun.

Isn't It Natural?
"My bird is sad being inside all the time. And don't they need sunshine?" Going outside seems like a natural thing to do with your bird, and in some ways it is. Parrots are wild animals and living in human homes is not always easy for them. But parrots in the wild are equipped with many sophisticated skills, such as predator avoidance and danger signals, that their flock teaches them; they also have some safety in numbers. And as wild parrots learn to fly, they become familiar with their surroundings and learn how to find their way home, which pet birds can't do.
Wild birds know what to expect from their environment, like wind, rain and predators. They encounter these things on a daily basis and know how to navigate them safely. When our pet birds go outdoors, on the other hand, they experience a strange world, full of surprises (cars speeding, horns honking, flags waving, cats and dogs approaching or threatening). These things can easily startle an indoor bird and cause him to fly away in fear -and even with clipped wings, he can float on the breeze. Although they possess the same native abilities as wild parrots, our pet birds have none of their skills, and are thus very vulnerable outside. For this reason, they should never be taken outside without an enclosure, such as a carrier or aviary. (And with a good diet, sunshine is less of a necessity.)

What Could Go Wrong?
It's sad to say, but a lot of things can and do go awry when people take their birds outside, however tame and bonded the birds are. Just look at any lost bird listing to see how many birds have flown away to an unknown fate and those are just the ones that were reported. We've encountered dozens of tragedies related to birds going outdoors unprotected, such as:

* Predator birds can pluck the bird right off your shoulder. This occurs more often than you might think.
* A dog or cat can scare the bird off your shoulder and to the ground, where he can be bitten, scratched or killed.
* A gust of wind can carry small birds high enough that they can glide, become disoriented and not be able to get back to you.
* If a small bird grows even one wing feather, he may be able to fly. Suddenly, he takes off. This happens a lot!
* When exposed to indoor/outdoor temperature changes and drafts, unacclimated birds can become ill.
* Birds have flown off their owners' shoulders, landed in lakes and drowned; flown into oncoming cars; crashed into buildings after being startled by a car or bus.
* Birds left in their cages on the porch without supervision have been maimed and killed by raccoons, cats or dogs, or stolen.

Going Outside Safely
Yes, it can be done! And taking your bird for walks or car rides can be great for his mental health, can be a nice break from his routine and is fun for both of you. Take your bird outside in a sturdy, roomy carrier; you can even use the one he rides in on trips to the vet. (This positive association will also make it easier to get him in the carrier for vet visits!) Double- and triple-check that the carrier is completely and securely closed before you go outside. If the carrier has a grated top, bring a hand towel along. Overhead objects like flags, wild birds and trucks can be scary, and a cover will help your bird feel more secure. Let your bird's comfort level and interests determine where you go. Some birds love nature and will enjoy visiting parks and neighbors' gardens. Others prefer watching cars and will want to ride around town. Prop the carrier on a stack of towels, then wrap the seatbelt through and around the handle and make sure there is no slack. You can also take your bird, in his cage, on the porch while you read or visit with friends. Or, if you have the skills and the space, you can build him an aviary. Consult reliable books for advice on safe use. Wherever you go and whatever you do, never leave your bird outside, in any type of enclosure, while you are at work, out running errands, going inside for a snack or otherwise not watching.

In Case of Emergency In spite of all the precautions, your bird may still get lost or injured. Lost birds are rarely found and returned home, but there are a number of steps you can take to increase the likelihood of a happy ending:

* If your bird has a band, write down the number and store it in an easy-to-remember place.
* Keep a current photo and written description of your bird on hand so you won't have to write something up when you'd rather be out looking.
* Use the photo and description to create flyers, and post them at every vet office, pet shop, grocery store, school or well-visited place you can.
* Post a lost-bird notice on our website, lost-pet sites and community sites.

If your bird is injured:
* Take her to an avian vet immediately. (This is one of those times when you'll be really glad you established a relationship with your avian vet!)
* Keep the bird calm and warm.
* Apply first aid as needed.
* Dog and cat bites are very serious injuries because of the bacteria in the animals' saliva. These bites are lifethreatening emergencies and must be treated by an avian vet as soon as possible.

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Feather Plucking

Medical Causes of Feather Plucking, Picking & Mutilation in Pet Birds, written & compiled by Juli Burge, DVM

There are many known causes of plucking. On rare occasions a cause may be easy to identify and correct. However, in many cases a cause is not identified and the picking is difficult or impossible to resolve. Therefore, feather plucking is one of the most frustrating and complex problems seen by avian veterinarians. It is even possible that once the initiating cause is resolved, a bird may continue to pick from habit or for attention. In many cases, the owner's frustration over the picking is sensed by the bird, making the bird's anxiety, and therefore the feather picking, worse.

Some disease-related causes of feather plucking include:

* Hormonal imbalances such as low thyroid levels, progesterone or testosterone
* Poor nutrition, especially vitamin A deficiency
* Allergies to seeds, mold, pollen, cigarette smoke, perfume, hair spray, detergent, or artificial preservatives or colors in foods
* Internal parasites such as Giardia, roundworms or tapeworms
* Bacterial, viral, or fungal infections of the skin and feathers
* Intestinal, respiratory, or crop infection
* Internal tumors or liver or kidney disease
* Dry, flaky skin or thickened reddened skin
* Improper wing clipping, where the cut shafts poke the bird's back
* An injury causing pain or itching during healing
* Toxins such as lead or zinc poisoning
* External parasites such as mites or lice are very rarely a cause

In order to perform a thorough evaluation of a bird's plucking to try and find a medical cause, there are many tests that would necessary. There is no guarantee that performing any or all of these tests will result in a diagnosis.

* CBC and Chemistry Profile: over 25 measures of organ function and blood cells
* Oral and fecal microscopic exams or cultures: for bacteria and funguses
* Multiple fecal samples: for special stains to look for parasites
* Thyroid hormone testing
* Blood tests for lead or zinc levels
* DNA probe tests: for specific diseases such as PBFD virus
* Radiographs: to look for tumors or organ enlargements
* Plasma electrophoresis or bile acid testing: when suggested by other test results
* Skin biopsies: for examination by a pathologist when other causes are not found

There are currently no readily available tests for allergies, most hormones, or vitamin levels. Sometimes even when a medical problem is diagnosed, there may be no treatment available, or the bird may continue to pluck out of habit. We usually do not recommend collars, antidepressant drugs or tranquilizers except for birds that are injuring themselves.

Nonmedical Causes of Plucking, Picking & Mutilation in Pet Birds:
Some causes, not related to any disease, include:


* Boredom in the very intelligent larger parrot species
* Insecurity, Stress, or Nervousness (can be caused by a change in daily routine, a new environment, remodeling, other pets, or a new owner)
* Overcrowded housing: Finches in particular
* Sexual frustration in a mature bird
* Overly enthusiastic plucking of a brood patch by an egg laying female
* Excessive courtship behavior: one bird plucks the other
* Parents picking their chicks to drive them from the nest so they can breed again
* Inadequate bathing facilities and low humidity
* Breed predisposition, as in Quaker Mutilation Syndrome


Change in your bird's life may be necessary, but make all changes gradually. Protecting a parrot from traumatic experiences is essential. Overprotected parrots, however, which have not been introduced to change in safe, secure ways are often feather pickers.

* Provide plenty of toys, some of which can be destroyed, since birds find great satisfaction in tearing things up. Try cotton rope, natural whiskbrooms, newspaper torn into strips and hung in the cage, and soft woods that can be chewed into pieces. Rotate toys every couple of weeks. If your bird is afraid of new toys, lay them on a nearby surface for a couple of days, then hang them on the outside of the cage away from food and water dishes.
* Occupy your bird's time by making it work to find food inside of a specially designed "treat hiding toy", or put food inside a box that your bird has to chew thru.
* Leave on a television or radio for the bird to listen to. Many owners say that their birds enjoy programs geared toward small children.
* Make sure your bird is caged where it can be involved in the household rather than shut away in a back room. However, avoid placing a nervous bird where there may be unexpected things happening in every direction. Many birds feel more secure in a corner where they can't be approached from all sides. Some birds enjoy looking out a window, while others may be scared of something outside.
* The bird should be getting 10 to 12 hours of quiet sleep each night. You may have to move the cage into a nighttime room to ensure this if people are up late watching TV. The bird should also get plenty of exercise every day outside of the cage. Try teaching it tricks like riding a remote controlled car or playing fetch. * Allow your bird to bathe as often as possible in a dish or in the shower with you. If he or she won't take a bath, use a spray bottle with plain water every day.
* Avoid giving the bird too much attention when young, as it needs to learn to be alone sometimes and entertain itself. Focus more on teaching the bird to play and do tricks rather than just sitting and being petted, which may stimulate breeding hormones and cause frustration.
* Ignore the feather plucking behavior. Birds are much like children and will sometimes prefer negative attention to no attention at all. Your attempts to distract your pet bird from feather picking may actually become entertaining to the bird. Your first responsibility, therefore, is NOT to draw attention to the picking in front of your bird.
* Sometimes after doing complete lab work and having the owner make changes at home to make the bird as happy as possible, I counsel owners to accept that some birds are not easy to cure. As long as they are happy and healthy in every way that we can control, sometimes a bird missing some feathers is not such a terrible thing to have to live with.

Reprinted with written permission from the author, Julie Burge, DVM Copyright Juli Burge, DVM, September, 2003. All rights reserved. Parts or whole may not be reprinted without express written permission of the author.

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Why Bird Rescue is Sadly Needed

There are a number of reasons why birds find themselves homeless. All are equally sad & tragic, but all are preventable, if humans work to make it so.

1. Mega-bird breeders (bird mills)*
These folks make a living from parrots as a commodity. They often work with chain pet stores (many of which take horrible care of their birds) to glut the "market" with babies.

2. Backyard breeders*
These nice well-intentioned folks think it would be "neat" to let their birds breed. Then there is a clutch of babies needing good homes. Even if you find good homes for them, those homes could have gone to an already living rescue bird. Most people now realize that you should spay/neuter your dog or cat. The same spplies here- don't breed, don't buy, adopt!

3. Impulse buyers
These nice well-intentioned folks fall in love with that cute cockatoo (or other parrot) at the store and take it home. Several months later they are being driven crazy. They had no idea how destructive, how messy, how loud this bird could be! Or perhaps the bird hits puberty and is no longer the sweet docile creature you originally took home. It is VERY important to educate yourself about birds before and after you take a bird home. Learning is a life-long process. And adopting a parrot should be one, too. Consider your parrot a feathered kid. You now have a family member depending on you for guidance- you can't just dump a human child that doesn't meet your expectations 100% at the orphanage, can you?

4. Misunderstandings/Miscommunication
Human beings can be pretty selfish sometimes. They expect their pets to never have a bad day. But as highly intelligent creatures, parrots can sometimes be bratty, moody, and manipulative! Knowing what living with a parrot is like is key to enjoying the experience. The more you learn about your amazing avian companion, the less likely you are to encounter patterned behavioral problems like biting or screaming. And if you do, you are much better equipped to handle it!

5. Lack of Planning
Many parrots outlive their humans. Do you have an estate plan that takes care of Polly after you go? If your spouse has never liked the bird (and vice versa), can you really expect him/her to care for it after you go?
Or maybe you adopted a bird, then decided to have a baby. Many people give up their bird(s) at this time- but who did you commit to first? And why can't you make it work?

Suffice to say, avian rescue is needed because of humans. As a human, won't you help to curb this problem of our own making? Don't breed, don't buy, adopt!

*This is not to imply that all breeders are irresponsible. To the contrary, there are many wonderful breeders out there who have contributed to our knowledge of avian nutrition, medicine, and behavior. They always take back the birds they sell. They wean onto a varied nutritious diet. They allow babies to fledge. They do not adopt to just anyone.

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The "Only Handfed Babies Bond" Myth

Article Coming Soon!

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Don't Buy, Don't Breed, Adopt!

Are you interested in getting a bird (either a first bird or a new flock member)? We at Squawk and Howl highly encourage you to adopt a bird in need from a reputable rescue rather than breeding, buying a baby (either from a store or a breeder). Why?

There are so many wonderful birds in need of homes. Rather than encouraging the breeding of even more birds (many of whom end up in rescues after being purchased on impulse or by people unable to meet the bird's needs), adoption is a responsible way to bring extra joy into your life- and the bird's!

Squawk and Howl is involved with Mickaboo Rescue not only as a donor- we foster birds and have adopted birds to add to our flock. While adoption makes some wary ("What about behavioral problems?" "Are all these birds 'damaged' somehow?") rescues carefully screen adoptees and match them to appropriate birds. Mickaboo, for example, would never adopt out a bird that a potential adopter could not handle. Mickaboo also requires bird education classes and provides continuous support and community from other volunteers to adoptive and foster parents. Look into adoption!

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How You Can Help Birds in Need

So you wanna help the birds? There are many ways to do it!

1. Donate money to an existing rescue.

2. Become an adoptive or foster parent for a rescue (click on the link below to fond one)! We in the rescue game can only help as many birds as we have safe, qualified, loving homes for.

3. Educate yourself continuously on bird care, behavior, and husbandry. Squawk and Howl offers free bird education classes, and so do Feathered Follies and other Bay Area resources. The Companion Parrot Quarterly is a reputable source of information. Establish a good relationship with a Board Certified Avian Vet and ASK QUESTIONS! Visit some of the web communities recommended on this page. Join a bird club. Then teach others what you have learned. Anything you can do to help educate bird "owners" is great.

4. Each year, buy a "Parrots at Play" calendar! $10 from each calendar goes to the bird rescue group of your choice!

5. Adopt your next new flock member from a reputable rescue or sanctuary (non-profit).

6. Volunteer your time at a local shelter that takes in birds- you can be the person that socializes with them, makes sure they have the right diet, ensures that they stay healthy, and ultimately goes to a good rescue or a educated proper home! Peninsula Humane Society is one such place.

7. Buy your supplies from a provider that donates to rescue: Mickaboo has an eBay store, The Birdbrain is a Gabriel Foundation store.

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Bay Area Avian Rescues

In the Bay Area, we are blessed to have many individuals working in avian rescue. There are 4 501 (c) 3 organizations, as well as countless individuals dedicating time & resources to helping birds in need. The non-profit organizations are:
Caring Hands Rescuing Parrots (CHRP), The Peninsula Humane Society, Mickaboo, and Companion Parrot Connection.

CHRP is the newest rescue on the block, founded by some great people in the Bay Area "bird community": The women of Feathered Follies, Gayle Reece (formerly of Companion Parrot Quarterly), and more.

The Peninsula Humane Society is one of the few shelters that not only have birds, but care for them beautifully until they find a forever home.

Mickaboo Cockatiel Rescue (a misnomer, since they now help all sorts of parrot-type birds, doves, canaries, and finches) is an all-volunteer non-profit based in the Bay Area.

Companion Parrot Connection, based in Sacramento, focuses on medium to large parrots (conures, poicephalus, amazons, macaws, greys).

Squawk and Howl gives discounts to rescue families (adoptive & foster familes), allowing them to take a much-deserved vacation with peace of mind!

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Sanctuary! The Oasis in AZ

The Oasis Sanctuary is a life-care facility for captive Exotic birds. In particular, they are a refuge for parrots, cockatoos, macaws and other Psittacine birds; although they do accept Passerines (finches and canaries), columbiformes (doves and "fancy" or racing pigeons), and other captive avian species. As a true sanctuary, they do not offer birds for adoption. However, they work with and refer birds requiring re-homing to bona fide adoption programs around the country. Rather, they provide a loving, safe, stable environment for birds that have not had an easy life: abused, neglected, or special needs birds find their way here from all over.

Squawk and Howl gives a percentage of its fees directly to The Oasis.

The Oasis Sanctuary is not a zoo, and does not have regular hours when they are open to the public. With reasonable notice, they are usually able to accomodate visitors by appointment.

The Oasis has taken a few "unadoptables" from the local rescue, Mickaboo, as well (special needs Cherry-Headed Conures unable to return to the wild flock in San Francisco and a severly abused Macaw who was rescued from a horrible pet store (where he was kept as a breeder in a hamster tank with a rubber band around his beak). It was determined that these birds would be happier in a sanctuary rather than as pets.), and we are eternally grateful for their existence & care.

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Cockatiel Body Language: An Illustrated Guide, by Phoenixk & her tiel Ebo (at Tailfeathers Network)

Bird's crest is all the way up = scared or surprised, usually. I've heard it can also mean excited, but I've never seen it used in that way.
Ebo freaked out

Bird's crest is flattened against the head = might mean that your bird is angry. If he does this and gets little bunchy eyebrows and tries to bite, then yeah, he's mad. ^_^ They might also get "skinny" while doing this.

Bird suddenly gets really tall and "skinny" = usually means very surprised/startled. A lot of times this is accompanied by the crest going up all the way. It might look like his crop is sucked in.

Bird bobs his head = in a young or recently weaned bird, it usually means he's hungry. In older birds, it might mean that they want attention. But this is a more common action among young birds.

Bird has a "big chest" = it's when a bird holds his wings slightly away from his sides so it looks like his chest is sticking out. If you look at him from the back, his wings form a heart shape. They usually do this when they're showing off and bragging. Also when they're pleasantly excited.
Ebo's "Big Chest"
Ebo's "Heart Wings"

Bird lowers his head and keeps it there = Be honored! It probably means your birdie wants you to pet him!

Bird stoops low with wings held out halfway, sometimes leaning forward = If your bird is clipped, then it means he wants to fly somewhere (often towards you) but isn't confident enough to take off. An unclipped bird would usually fly without hesitation.

Bird holds his wings outstretched all the way when standing on top of the cage/gym = has something to do with "property ownership." They're saying "This is mine!"
Ebo conquers his gym

Bird bangs his beak on a hard object (or on you ^_^) = similar to the thing above. This is common with male cockatiels. It looks like they're "pecking," sometimes with an open beak. Again, "this is mine!" If you start tapping your finger in front of him while he's doing this, you can start a war!

Bird steps back and forth very quickly (sometimes accompanied by short chirps) = bird is very eager. Often done inside the cage when the bird wants to come out.

Bird puts his beak on your finger before stepping on = this might look like a mini bite, but he's actually just testing the surface of your finger to make sure it's sturdy, or he's using it as a balancing aid while climbing on.

Bird grinds his beak = you'll usually notice this more by the sound than the visual. Your bird is probably content and relaxed. This is often done before they go to sleep or take a nap.

Bird jumps onto your chest, runs into your face, and sticks his chest or beak into your face = your bird wants to cuddle. Cute!

Bird turns his head sideways and tilts it up or down = he is looking at something up high or down below. Because of their eye positioning and the way they move, this is how they look at these things. A lot of times, the bird is looking at his own fluff floating in the air. Sometimes this is also done with sounds, but it's not as common.
Ebo Looking

Bird "wags her tail" when you pet near her tail = this is more common with female birds. It means stop petting her over there because you're turning her on, and you don't want her to start laying eggs. ^_^

Bird rubs his/her butt on an object (often accompanied by chirping) = your bird is masturbating.

Bird turns his head backwards and closes eyes = bedtime. Sometimes they don't turn their head backwards. If they're going to sleep, they'll usually rest on just one foot. While cuddling, bird has one eye closed and one eye opened = usually, the eye facing you is closed, and the eye facing the rest of the world is opened. He's relaxed and content, but is still alert enough to want to keep a look out. Bird remains puffed for long periods of time (often also staying at the bottom of his cage) = your bird is probably not feeling well and needs to see a vet.

Bird yawns many many times in a row = often done after preening. It could be that he's readjusting his crop or that he got a bit of down stuck in his throat. Either way, it's normal.

Bird shakes head rapidly = if done while eating, it could mean that the food has a surprising taste, temperature, or moisture level. If done when listening to the sound, it could mean that it's a tad too loud or sharp or high-pitched, or just that it's an interesting sound.

Bird wipes his head on his back (aka "rolly head") = it's a normal part of preening. Feel that part of their back, and your fingers will get very powdery. They're distributing that stuff to their head.

Bird stoops down low and often gets a bit puffy = this is a sign that your bird is about to go to the bathroom. Get a napkin, quick! You'll learn to recognize this soon enough!

During a bath, bird gets very puffy and holds his wings out, etc. = your bird is enjoying his bath!
Ebo Gets Sprayed

During a shower, your bird looks like he's falling asleep = again, he's enjoying himself!

Bird sticks his finger in his nare, then sneezes = he's just trying to clear out his nostrils or something. It's normal.
Ebo Scratching

Bird gets a slightly puffy face/ears when listening to something = bird likes what he's hearing! Ebo did this a lot when I used to tell him certain things. He later learned to say these things.

Bird raises both wings above his back = bird is stretching.
Ebo Stretches

Bird holds out one wing and one foot behind him = bird is stretching.
Ebo Stretches #2

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Are You & Your Bird Ready for an Emergency?

You should have an emergency kit prepared for you and your animals in case you need to evacuate your home. Keep the following items in a sealed, waterproof container in a secure area (like the trunk of your car):

1. 1 week supply of his/her regular food (be sure to replace regularly to keep this fresh).
2. 1 week supply of water.
3. Cat/Dog carrier instead of regular cage (esp. important with big birds).
4. Blanket or towel to cover bird or carrier.
5. Gloves for handling smaller, panicked birds.
6. Your bird first aid kit.

Transporting your bird in an emergency:

1. Place bird in a sturdy carrier that is large enough for the bird to move around. If bird is panicked (and won't go in carrier), you can put smaller birds in a pillowcase, then transfer to a carrier.
2. In cool weather, wrap a towel or blanket around the carrier.
3. In warm weather, carry a plant mister to cool the bird down.
4. Offer high water content fruits instead of water.
5. Line the carrier with paper towels and hopefully, add a perch.
6. Keep the bird in a warm, secure, quiet area. Do not let the bird out.
7. Birds are VERY sensitive to smoke. If fleeing a fire, make sure the carrier is well covered.

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Estate Planning: Caring for Your BIrd Even After You Die

No one likes to think about their own death. But those of us with companion parrots should think about it. When you buy a baby parrot whose lifespan may be anywhere from 30-80 years, your bird can easily outlive you.

There are a number of options for you to consider so that your animal(s) are well provided for. But you need to consult with a professional (a lawyer) to make sure the documents are legal and enforcable. In the Bay Area, we are fortunate to have a lawyer who specializes in just that. His name is Michael Blacksburg and his law office not only does estate planning for individuals, but he also advises for many 501 (c)3 animal rescues pro bono!

Check him out here:

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Why Airborne Stuff Will Kill Your Birds by Laurie E. Baker

This article is given out for free by Laurie E Baker (of Feathered Follies) and is reprinted here for public benefit.

In order to understand why airborne toxins affect your birds so much more than humans or other vertebrates you need to understand the way birds breathe. This article will cover the mechanics of the avian respitory system, the effects of airborne pollutants and some of the biggest hidden dangers to birds.

The avian respitory system is not like any other vertebrate and only occupies a little over 2% of a bird's body volume. Unlike mammals, they have no diaphragm to power breathing; instead they rely on muscles to inhale & exhale. So if you pit pressure on the body of any bird they will panic because their breathing has been impeded.When we inhale, oxygen moves into the lungs and we exhale carbon dioxide. There is a time during this cycle that we actually have no fresh oxygen. Birds have a constant supply of oxygen because of a complex respitory system.

The main function of their respitory system is the same as ours: to take in oxygen and move out carbon dioxide. The efficiency of this system is crucial due to the high demands of maintaining flight. To meet this demand, birds have developed a complex system that involves the lungs and auxiliary air sacs, which are a complex anatomic feature not seen in any other members of the animal kingdom. Almost every part of a bird's body is in direct communication with the respitory system. They even have pneumatic bones, which are bones that are hollow & hold air.

Birds have a constant supply of oxygen which moderates the body's temperature & allows activities. When the bird inhales, the air in the lungs actually moves out & when it exhales the air moves into the lungs. yes, this is just the opposite of us. The reason is because of a system of thin walled balloons that are located in 9 places in the body called air sacs.

It takes 2 cycles of inhaling & exhaling to complete air movement in birds. The air sacs don't exchange carbon dioxide for oxygen. This is only done in the lungs. On the next cycle, the air in the lungs moves to another air sac when inhaling and moves up and out the trachea on the second exhale. This is a very basic explanation of a bird's breathing, but you can see how taking in something that could harm the body makes such a drastic reaction.

When a toxin is introduced to a bird's respiratory system it is very quickly dispersed throughout the body. As stated earlier, air or a toxin even penetrates bone directly and is then followed by what has been transferred to the blood. The bird doesn't even stand a chance because of the very system that allows them constant oxygen to maintain the high energy demands of their bodies.

There are many, many fumes that can either make a bird very ill or kill them. Some of these are nail polish remover, wet paint, gasoline, ammonia cleaners that are sprayed onto surfaces, improperly diluted Clorox, melted plastic, carbon monoxide, insecticides and pesticides, cigarette and marijuana smoke, natural gas, hair dyes, and many many more. I usually figure that if I can smell something, then the bird can smell it 10x more than I do.

Probably the most deadly to us and the birds are non-stick coatings or PTFEs. The first of these was produced by DuPont more than 50 years ago and today essentially the same product is called by many names and used on many, many products. DuPont has claimed for years that their coatings do not emit hazardous chemicals with normal use, but EPA scientists have now proven the perfluorooctanic acid, or PFOA, is absorbed by humans and takes many years to clear the body without misuse of coated products. Additionally, PFOA doesn't break down in the environment and causes diseases in animals such as cancer, liver damage, and birth defects. Scientists are currently testing other PFOA chemicals (such as telomers) to determine the extent of PFOA produced when the chemical breaks down. An example of products using telomers is the stain repellent coatings that are used for carpeting and clothing. It has not been proven that the levels of PFOA that humans absorb is dangerous, but at the same time, there is a condition in humans called "polymer fume fever" caused by these fumes.

DuPont claims that their coatings don't break down with normal use, but deaths in birds prove this incorrect. Avian veterinarians have known for decades that non-stick cookware produces fumes highly toxic to birds. One veterinarian documented 296 deaths over a year caused by these toxic fumes.

I am going to cite some real facts as a closing to this article. Feathered Follies has always known non-stick surfaces were dangerous and I hope that anyone who reads this will consider the use of non-stick products and the health of themselves and their birds.

Real Examples:

A non-stick cookie pan being used to make plasic X-mas ornaments was heated in the oven. The family lost 20+ parakeets, including chicks.

55 birds sied when water was burned off a hot pan.

A drip pan was preheated in preparation of Thanksgiving dinner; 14 birds died within 15 minutes.

Yellow-Nape Amazon died after his owner cooked eggs on the stove for them to share.

Grill plate used at normal temperatures on a gas stove killed two Moluccan Cockatoos and a Lovebird.

Self-cleaning cycle was used on new Amana oven and one Macaw died.

Heat bulbs coated with Teflon installed in a zoo killed al the birds they were supposed to warm.

Moluccan Cockatoo doed after a carpet repair with glue and Teflon coated iron.

Mexican Redhead Amazon killed by Stainsafe coating on a new couch.

Skillet and electric spaceheater coated with PTFE killed a Ringneck Parakeet, Amazon, and Blue & Gold Macaw.

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